Lubricating dump valves?

[Martin 68]

Have been RVing for 10 year's plus. Can't wait to try this Idea.

[TG10894]

Had same issue as original post; hard to open, and didn't feel quite right closing. Tried lubricating shaft of valve but that didn't help much. Tried the veg oil and Bingo, operated like new. May not be the best maint option, but it sure works for me so far.

I drained tank normally, then closed valve and poured in about a quart of oil. Let sit for 30 minutes then worked valve back and forth a few times while the oil drained. Since then, I just put a little oil in the tank if the friction increases and so far no issues.

[buzzcop63]

Cheap detergent and softener from Dollar Tree, put in after every trip in both black and gray tanks, what ever amount feels right. Detergent helps the tank stay clean and cuts smell and softener is said to make the plastic slicker. When dumping after tanks are empty work valve back and fourth a few times to make sure there is nothing sticking. Trailer is a 2012, no problems with valves yet!

[Hamops]

My problem isn't so much the actual valve as it is the pull cables and I think that is what you are experiencing. They rust up in the guide tubes and are a bear to pull. The trailer dealer suggested that I inject "Fluid-Film" down the tubes. I've done this and it helps but it's not easy injecting the fluid down the guide tube.
I think the ultimate solution is to remove the pull cables and pump grease into the guide tubes until they are full of grease and reinstall the pull cables.

[jimborokz]

Originally Posted by Hamops

My problem isn't so much the actual valve as it is the pull cables and I think that is what you are experiencing. They rust up in the guide tubes and are a bear to pull. The trailer dealer suggested that I inject "Fluid-Film" down the tubes. I've done this and it helps but it's not easy injecting the fluid down the guide tube.
I think the ultimate solution is to remove the pull cables and pump grease into the guide tubes until they are full of grease and reinstall the pull cables.

Had hard working valves in my previous SOB. I would inject WD40 into the cable every time I dumped and after 4 or 5 cycles they started working better. This was an attempt to avoid going up under the coroplast to the valves. After that I would squirt some in every couple dumps and never had any more issues.

[JRTJH]

There is a "motorcycle cable lubricating adapter" available that will "inject lube oil/graphite" into the Bowden cables. If it's the cable that's binding and it's not kinked or twisted that's causing the binding, lubricating the cables will often fix the issue "permanently" (until the next time they need lube)...

Here's just one of many types and brands: https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0182 They are available anywhere motorcycles are sold, at any auto parts store, Amazon, EBay or any internet motorcycle parts website.

On the other hand, if the plastic valve slide is "binding in the rubber seals" then vegetable oil (I prefer EVOO) will help lubricate and soften the rubber seals, allowing the plastic valve slide to move easier between the seals.

[RVPP]

Originally Posted by buzzcop63

Cheap detergent and softener from Dollar Tree, put in after every trip in both black and gray tanks, what ever amount feels right. Detergent helps the tank stay clean and cuts smell and softener is said to make the plastic slicker. When dumping after tanks are empty work valve back and fourth a few times to make sure there is nothing sticking. Trailer is a 2012, no problems with valves yet!

We used Pine-Sol, work well and smells nice.
Paul


Remember, this is not a rehearsal.