Hot water heater gunk

huhhhhh · 08-21-2017, 08:08 PM

Went through the water system over the weekend for the first time since picking up the 2012 Fuzion 405. I stuck my finger in the anode rod hole and felt a bunch of mud like gunk in the bottom of the tank. I made a loop from a hanger and started scooping it out. lot of large white chunky pieces and a bunch of wet sandy looking gunk was in there. Hooked up a hose to the city water fill and started flushing water out of the tank while scooping with the hanger loop and got a ton of gunk out. Filled the tank full and let it flow/push out everything that was in there.

My question is what what all the gunk and how did it get in there. Is the tank eating itself up? The anode rod had some spots on it that were being eaten away but not enough to account for all the gunk in the tank.

**flybouy** · 08-22-2017, 04:30 AM

Not clear if this is a new to you or the first time you've drained the tank in over 5 years. Either case it is normal mineral build up that has accumulated from the lack of maintenance. The tank needs to be drained and flushed periodically. The frequency depends on the water quality it's subjected to. Some folks drain after every trip, others once a year when winterizing. You can get a simple economical 'tis (total dissolved solids) like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HAKAFGC...a-SExBMG.YFgsg to decide if it requires flushing before packing up.
Hope this helps.

huhhhhh · 08-22-2017, 04:41 AM

Yeah it's new to me as of this year. Don't know what the previous owner did but if I had to guess I'd say no maintenance was ever done on it. I flushed it out pretty good until i could feel no more debris coming out of the water stream. I wish there was a low point drain plug instead of the anode rod port so all the water can be drained out instead of leaving a puddle in the bottom.

**flybouy** · 08-22-2017, 04:56 AM

Congratulations on the new to you camper! One of these https://www.amazon.com/Camco-11691-W...er+heater+wand
works well for flushing it out. You'll notice a quicker initial heat time as a large mineral build up will take a lot of energy to come up to temp.

jsmith948 · 08-22-2017, 05:00 AM

You might try using a shop vac to suck out the last of the water/sludge. I use a length of 3/8" rubber hose on the end of my air nozzle to blow the last of the water out. We have pretty hard water so we drain and flush the WH two or three times a year.

Johnny's Journey · 08-22-2017, 05:43 AM

If you haven't all ready closed things up I'd suggest running either city water or water pump to clear lower feed line of what ever you've blown or hosed into it. Let it run to be sure water will flow and is clear before closing it up. This way you'll know for sure water will get into the tank and not burn it up. Be sure also to bleed your tank so no air is in it before using.

**chuckster57** · 08-22-2017, 05:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Johnny's Journey

Be sure also to bleed your tank so no air is in it before using.

There should be an air gap in the tank to allow for expansion. When you fill your tank the first time, DO NOT open the pressure relief valve on top. Open up a faucet and when a solid stream comes out your good to go.

Javi · 08-22-2017, 05:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Johnny's Journey

If you haven't all ready closed things up I'd suggest running either city water or water pump to clear lower feed line of what ever you've blown or hosed into it. Let it run to be sure water will flow and is clear before closing it up. This way you'll know for sure water will get into the tank and not burn it up. Be sure also to bleed your tank so no air is in it before using.

Actually, RV water heaters are designed to have an air gap in them to compensate for expansion as the water heats...

**flybouy** · 08-22-2017, 06:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuckster57

There should be an air gap in the tank to allow for expansion. When you fill your tank the first time, DO NOT open the pressure relief valve on top. Open up a faucet and when a solid stream comes out your good to go.

Absolutely!

If the previous owner was lax on maintenance I'd strongly suggest inspecting the roof lap sealant and the breaks/bearings as a start.

huhhhhh · 08-22-2017, 06:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flybouy

Absolutely!

If the previous owner was lax on maintenance I'd strongly suggest inspecting the roof lap sealant and the breaks/bearings as a start.

Already done those two.

1st Chev Diesel · 08-22-2017, 07:15 AM

You may want to check out this youtube video on flushing a Suburban water heater.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QjEPy21nIrQ

ctbruce · 08-22-2017, 09:25 AM

That is the remains of what you normally drink when drinking hard water. Thank goodness, it flushes out of the human system too.

bobbecky · 08-22-2017, 10:15 AM

I just flushed our water heater and installed a new anode. If your rig has the single valve in the convenience center for the water heater bypass, then you also have a check valve on the hot water outlet of the water heater. Instead of turning off the water going into the trailer, I just turn the bypass valve to the bypass position, then drain the tank after removing the anode. Once the tank has drained, I just turn the bypass valve to allow water to enter the water heater tank, which enters the tank at the bottom from the rear, and this effectively flushes the tank of everything. I then turn the bypass back to the bypass position, and install the new anode. Be sure to turn off the electric and also the gas mode while doing maintenance, and fill the tank prior to turning the electric back on.

Desert185 · 08-22-2017, 11:34 AM

Opening the bypass valve during the drain and flush helps motivate the flow and flushing effect.

We also filter all the water going into the trailer by using one of these each season. Some well water has sand in it, which doesn't help anything.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Camco-Wat...-Pack/14504322

**JRTJH** · 08-22-2017, 01:35 PM

An 18" length of 3/8" clear vinyl hose worked onto the nozzle end of a "high pressure nozzle" will deliver enough water pressure (from a standard garden hose) to break up and float most "gunk" on the bottom of a water heater. I use this through the anode opening every time I drain my water heater, then use an 18" length of 1/2" clear vinyl hose to vacuum out any remaining water/gunk before reinstalling the anode rod. If there is any significant "white scale" on the anode I use the wire brush on my grinder to break it away and then wipe the anode rod with alcohol to make sure it's clean before using new Teflon tape to wrap the threads.

Using this procedure I've more or less eliminated most buildup in the tank. Something to consider is that Suburban uses a "glass lined tank" (porcelain lining)which is subject to flaking if you "bang around in there" with a screwdriver or a hard metal tube while breaking up the gunk. Vinyl tubing is available at any big box store and a plastic high pressure garden hose nozzle is available for a buck at most "dollar stores" or a brass one for about $2 at Lowe's. I used some old electrical tape to secure the 1/2" vinyl hose on my vacuum attachment. Total cost probably less than $5.

I also use and recommend a water filter to help prevent sand, silt and iron particles from entering the trailer system. While they may not do any harm, they certainly won't do any good.

Johnny's Journey · 08-22-2017, 05:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuckster57

There should be an air gap in the tank to allow for expansion. When you fill your tank the first time, DO NOT open the pressure relief valve on top. Open up a faucet and when a solid stream comes out your good to go.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Javi

Actually, RV water heaters are designed to have an air gap in them to compensate for expansion as the water heats...

My bad. What I tried to convey is don't start it empty. Paddle please.

**chuckster57** · 08-22-2017, 05:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Johnny's Journey

My bad. What I tried to convey is don't start it empty. Paddle please.

huhhhhh · 08-22-2017, 05:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1st Chev Diesel

You may want to check out this youtube video on flushing a Suburban water heater.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QjEPy21nIrQ

Started watching that video and there was a message about an updated new and improved video that showed me exactly what was going on. New video here.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?annota...&v=TL7AtXJYNcc

Johnny's Journey · 08-22-2017, 08:10 PM

huhhhhh, I no longer have a Suburban water heater because the new TT has an Atwood and I have a new Suburban magnesium anode rod with no heater for it to go into. You are more than welcome to it. If interested PM me.

huhhhhh · 08-23-2017, 02:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Johnny's Journey

huhhhhh, I no longer have a Suburban water heater because the new TT has an Atwood and I have a new Suburban magnesium anode rod with no heater for it to go into. You are more than welcome to it. If interested PM me.

What do you think it would cost to ship it to Colorado Springs Colorado 80907

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