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Old 06-13-2018, 11:51 AM   #21
coltg
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Check the outside shower valves. If both valves are open, (and the hose isn't hooked up or the water is turned off at the shower head), you'll get mixing of hot and cold at the other faucets. Usually mostly cold.
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Old 06-13-2018, 07:00 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coltg View Post
Check the outside shower valves. If both valves are open, (and the hose isn't hooked up or the water is turned off at the shower head), you'll get mixing of hot and cold at the other faucets. Usually mostly cold.

Thanks but that's not it. Wish it was. Both valves closed at the outside shower, inside shower, and no washer hooked up so valves off there too.
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Old 06-14-2018, 03:21 PM   #23
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Did you replace the relay for the electric heater. Most of the time in our shop the relay is bad not the heater. The board controls the gas and the electric sides. Do you have 110 volts to relay, 12 volts to board. Since you have a anode it is a suburban let me know what model you have as some 10 gals have a blend valve can can be stuck.
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Old 06-14-2018, 04:47 PM   #24
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It is model SW12DEL.
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Old 06-15-2018, 04:32 AM   #25
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You've found the water heater had hot water in it. The reason the gas wouldn't come on was it's t-stat was already satisfied. When you turn on the hot water and let it run a couple minutes. Is it as cold as the water coming into your camper? Check both with a thermometer.
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Old 06-15-2018, 07:20 PM   #26
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I noticed same issue with labeling. Not correct. As for the gas not lighting I found my brand new Alpine had the ground wire at the heater was loose and not making contact. Tightened screws and heater lit.
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Old 06-17-2018, 04:26 PM   #27
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So last night I decide to put some water in the fresh water tank so I could disconnect from city water since leaving in the morning. Plus when I get to the next site for just one night before home, won't have to hook up for water.


Got here in TN, and for kicks, made sure the hot water heater was full and turned it on. Went to dinner. Came back and you guessed it, hot water flowing from the faucet.


So, what could be different between being hooked up to city water and using the pump/fresh water tank that could cause my flow issue when hooked up to city water? Is the hot water bypass valve in play at all when using the pump/fresh water tank?


I may get to take one shower in this unit on this trip after all!
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Old 06-17-2018, 04:37 PM   #28
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The water heater bypass valve should be in play on both city and pump. I don’t have any idea why it started working except maybe you left the ghosts at the last campground.
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Old 06-30-2018, 12:01 PM   #29
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I have 2017 Alpine had same problem turn bypass left at off. After I did this gas worked so did electric.

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Old 06-30-2018, 12:20 PM   #30
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Tore apart the basement wall to inspect the back of the hot water heater and all of the piping.


First, bypass valve has nothing to do with hot water flow out of the tank. If the bypass valve is set to off, tank will fill. Hot water out of the tank doesn't go through the bypass valve again so as long as the water filled the tank, that can't be the issue.


Root cause is likely the check valve at the hot water outlet on the tank. Replaced it today and much strong flow of water (cold of course at this point) out the faucet when the hot water is turned on. Plastic fitting which screws on to the brass check valve was dripping, so tightened it further, and of course it broke. Will get a replacement tonight and fix tomorrow. Then turn on the hot water heater and see if we get good hot water flow.
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Old 07-01-2018, 06:45 PM   #31
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Update: The plastic pipe and fittings are PEX. Bought a brass female fitting for the pipe, and the Pex clamps, and of course a pretty expensive Pex crimping tool. Well I guess now I have one. Put it back together, filled the tank, and turned the electric heater on. Checked it a few hours later and we have very hot, hot water flowing. There was much rejoicing.



So check valve was the problem and we now have a spare.
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Old 07-01-2018, 07:19 PM   #32
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Just a side note you can get fittings called shark bite fitting (brand name ) and you won't need a tool. That being said I have the crimp tool. I used press to lock fitting at work for years, for air fitting at 150 psi. Also for those who do not know, if you look at ball valves 1/4 turn valves if the handle is in line with the pipe it's on. Across the pipe it's off.
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Old 07-02-2018, 06:45 AM   #33
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Captcolor, can I borrow your pex tool? Aw, c'mon......
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Old 07-02-2018, 03:19 PM   #34
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Also for those who do not know, if you look at ball valves 1/4 turn valves if the handle is in line with the pipe it's on. Across the pipe it's off.
The problem with the bypass valve is that the handle is visible in the utility compartment, but the valve is on the other side of the wall, so you don't know how it is plumbed and in what direction.
Since I had the basement walls off, took a picture of the backside of the bypass valve. Also other water connections for future reference.
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Old 07-02-2018, 03:20 PM   #35
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Captcolor, can I borrow your pex tool? Aw, c'mon......
Absolutely!
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