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02-01-2024, 02:18 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2024
Location: North Stonington
Posts: 16
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Dead Water Heater
Hi,
I recently purchased a 2017 Keystone Summerland Springdale 2570RL and found the water heater to be rusted and nonfunctional.
I would like to know if this was YOUR rig, which water heater (specific if possible) would you replace it with? And is it a DIY project?
Thank you all in advance!
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02-01-2024, 02:27 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Wickenburg
Posts: 3,314
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You might want to post the mfr and model of the heater rather than the rig, it's one fewer level of indirection for somebody to research. Do you have the dimensions, and is it dual-heat or propane only?
__________________
2019 Cougar 26RBSWE
2019 Ford F-250
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02-01-2024, 02:37 PM
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#3
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: W. Texas
Posts: 17,702
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You'll find that they found a way to shoehorn that water heater in there with wires so short you can't move it and free space that amounts to zero. Sticking with the same size will be beneficial unless you want to start remodeling the walls surrounding it etc. in all probability.
It is probably an Atwood 6 gal. water heater. Propane only or propane/electric I don't know. Look at the unit and there should be a tag on it that tells you the size, model etc. I would replace it with the same thing unless you want to have a "project". It it's an Atwood, Dometic has taken them over and I read the other day that their current "replacements" don't have the same dimensions. Look at what you have and post back. Is it a DIY project? It should be but unless the tank size, dimensions etc. change. Even then it could/would be depending on your skill set.
__________________
Danny and Susan, wife of 56 years
2019 Ram 3500 Laramie CC SWB SB 6.4 4x4 4.10
2020 Montana High Country 331RL
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02-01-2024, 04:53 PM
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#4
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2024
Location: North Stonington
Posts: 16
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Oops! Here we go….
AIRXCEL
Suburban Manufacturing Co. Dayton, Tenn.
For Use With Propane Gas [***Although my wall panel has both gas & electric options - see photo.***]
Model: SW6DEL
Stock No.: 5140
Serial No.: 164609674
Orifice Size: 61 DMS
Tank Cap.: 6.0 U.S. Gallons
Test Press.: 300 PSI
Working Press.: 150 PSI
Gas Input: 12,000 BTU/HR
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I would love to replace with a fully electric & endless capability if possible.
Thank you all in advance!
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02-01-2024, 05:45 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2023
Location: Bryan
Posts: 227
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Just replace it with the same model and make, to keep it simple. As noted, they shoe-horn them into small places that are nearly inaccessible.
Ken
__________________
2023 Cougar, 2022 F150 EcoBoost tow max Lariat 4x4 Off Road. Former full-time RVer
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02-01-2024, 06:21 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2022
Location: Onaga, KS
Posts: 466
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKreative
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I would love to replace with a fully electric & endless capability if possible.
Thank you all in advance!
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I believe you have a 30 AMP service on that particular trailer, an electric on demand will take up every bit of that amperage and at 240V, not the 120V wired into your trailer.
Also, unless your are setting up on a static / fixed location with full hookup, endless capacity will overwhelm your grey tank quickly.
If you aren't mobile and are setting up in a permanent location an independent electrical feed dedicated to the water heater would be possible. BUT, remember with Eversource, cost of electricity and their ridiculous delivery charge could make this endeavor rather costly.
As stated earlier, it's recommended to replace it with the same heater. Also, be sure to use a sacrificial anode in the exterior plug, otherwise the new one will rust out in a hurry considering the hard water in North Stonington.
__________________
2021 Cougar 25RDS
2019 RAM 3500 Longhorn, Mega Cab, DRW,
Cummins 6.7 HO, Aisin 6 Spd HD, 4x4
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02-01-2024, 06:40 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2023
Location: Bryan
Posts: 227
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We have a tankless water heater and I hate the thing. I'd love to have the old tank type water heater. With a 30-amp trailer, you are limited on electrical capability. An all electric water heater is not a possibility.
Ken
__________________
2023 Cougar, 2022 F150 EcoBoost tow max Lariat 4x4 Off Road. Former full-time RVer
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02-01-2024, 07:18 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Wickenburg
Posts: 3,314
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SW6DEL is in fact both propane and electric. Details here [LINK].
(A trailer manufacturer putting a two-switch control on a one-trick water heater isn't unheard of, but isn't common.)
__________________
2019 Cougar 26RBSWE
2019 Ford F-250
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02-01-2024, 07:30 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2022
Location: Onaga, KS
Posts: 466
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LHaven
SW6DEL is in fact both propane and electric. Details here [LINK].
(A trailer manufacturer putting a two-switch control on a one-trick water heater isn't unheard of, but isn't common.)
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The posted picture shows the recessed reset buttons for the electric side.
__________________
2021 Cougar 25RDS
2019 RAM 3500 Longhorn, Mega Cab, DRW,
Cummins 6.7 HO, Aisin 6 Spd HD, 4x4
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02-01-2024, 07:31 PM
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#10
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: W. Texas
Posts: 17,702
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And here's a link to the same heater from Suburban;
https://suburbanrvparts.com/suburban...lectric-5240a/
It's gas and electric. I would replace the unit with one just like it.
__________________
Danny and Susan, wife of 56 years
2019 Ram 3500 Laramie CC SWB SB 6.4 4x4 4.10
2020 Montana High Country 331RL
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02-01-2024, 07:39 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Central FL
Posts: 1,090
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LHaven
SW6DEL is in fact both propane and electric. Details here [LINK].
(A trailer manufacturer putting a two-switch control on a one-trick water heater isn't unheard of, but isn't common.)
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Our Passport was 30amp and had an electric and propane WH. We never had a problem running the electric WH and the A/C at the same time.
__________________
2023 Cougar HT 23MLE
2020 F250 XLT CC 6.2 4WD
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02-02-2024, 03:15 AM
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#12
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2024
Location: North Stonington
Posts: 16
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Hi,
Thank you ALL for your feedback! I absolutely love this forum because you guys are great!
I do have an additional question in regards to the water heater. I had seen where one of the steps for setting up the water heater is to bleed the air out via the pressure relief valve. When I lift the toggle switch up, nothing happens - no water comes out. Does this mean that the valve has failed?
I planned on replacing the entire unit per your advice but was just curious if the current one would still work if I could get the pressure valve to work.
I hope this makes sense as I’m new to RVing - thank you in advance!
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02-02-2024, 04:12 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: jackson
Posts: 1,122
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You have to turn on the incoming water spigot and you should feel air come out if the valve when open if not ….Is there a water heater bypass? If engaged there is no water going in the tank
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02-02-2024, 05:27 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Upper Chesapeake Bay
Posts: 4,841
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I’d fix the one you have …my water heater looked like the one you posted when i purchased my rv new…Rvs generally sit outside most of their life. The water heater is separated from the elements by a thin piece of sheet metal with vents cut in it…Mine traveled new from indiana to the dealers lot and then sat for months.The metal on the burner tube and bracket is exposed to humidity from sitting and also water from the road when driving in a rainstorm…you may have a perfectly good water heater that just needs a cleaning or simple repair…Have someone experienced look at it…i’d keep it simple for now…you will likely have your hands full with other repairs on a used trailer…you can always upgrade in the future when you see how you actually use the rv for awhile …My bright ideas and wish list completely changed after the first year…yours may also
__________________
2020 Cougar 315 RLS
2020 Ram 3500 6.7HO 4.10 Dually Aisin
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02-02-2024, 05:32 AM
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#15
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,357
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKreative
Hi,
Thank you ALL for your feedback! I absolutely love this forum because you guys are great!
I do have an additional question in regards to the water heater. I had seen where one of the steps for setting up the water heater is to bleed the air out via the pressure relief valve. When I lift the toggle switch up, nothing happens - no water comes out. Does this mean that the valve has failed?
I planned on replacing the entire unit per your advice but was just curious if the current one would still work if I could get the pressure valve to work.
I hope this makes sense as I’m new to RVing - thank you in advance!
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You do NOT bleed the air using the pressure relief valve. You need an “air gap” to allow for expansion. Once you know the bypass valve is in the correct position turn on a faucet hot knob and when you get a steady stream of water your good to go.
__________________
2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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02-02-2024, 06:06 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: jackson
Posts: 1,122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckster57
You do NOT bleed the air using the pressure relief valve. You need an “air gap” to allow for expansion. Once you know the bypass valve is in the correct position turn on a faucet hot knob and when you get a steady stream of water your good to go.
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+1 on this reply...sorry I was replying before on my phone and stopped at the thought of nothing coming from the relief valve.
I'd post the reason you state it is non functional. If nothing is coming from this valve and you have the city water on, and all the faucets off...then I believe you have a bypass plumbed in and the tank is not getting anywater. DEpending on the plumbing, a HW heater can be bypassed but the hot and the cold water in the sink(s) work still. I'd take off the drain valve and turn on city water to ensure the tank is getting water. Then when the water runs clear cap that and open the HW at the sink in the trailer.
I do open up the relief valve when draining the HW tank AFTER IT IS COOL or after I have sanitized the entire system.
The worse think would be to install a new tank and find out is it some blown fuse/power/etc.
__________________
JXNBBL (Jay)
Jackson, NH
2021 Keystone 330BHS
2023 Ram 3500 6.7L diesel, 3.73 ratio
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02-02-2024, 07:37 AM
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#18
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2024
Location: North Stonington
Posts: 16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jxnbbl
You have to turn on the incoming water spigot and you should feel air come out if the valve when open if not ….Is there a water heater bypass? If engaged there is no water going in the tank
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Thank you! I have the water spigot on but do not feel anything at all coming from the valve. How do I verify if there is a heater bypass?
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02-02-2024, 07:43 AM
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#19
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2024
Location: North Stonington
Posts: 16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasin1
I’d fix the one you have …my water heater looked like the one you posted when i purchased my rv new…Rvs generally sit outside most of their life. The water heater is separated from the elements by a thin piece of sheet metal with vents cut in it…Mine traveled new from indiana to the dealers lot and then sat for months.The metal on the burner tube and bracket is exposed to humidity from sitting and also water from the road when driving in a rainstorm…you may have a perfectly good water heater that just needs a cleaning or simple repair…Have someone experienced look at it…i’d keep it simple for now…you will likely have your hands full with other repairs on a used trailer…you can always upgrade in the future when you see how you actually use the rv for awhile …My bright ideas and wish list completely changed after the first year…yours may also
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Thank you so very much for your response! It makes complete sense and it put my mind at ease. There is definitely a learning curve for me and I will start taking things a little slower while I learn the ropes. Had you not explained it I would have continued to think that the unit’s rust, dirt, etc. represented a negative value. Thank you again and I will be posting updates as I troubleshoot.
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02-02-2024, 07:59 AM
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#20
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2024
Location: North Stonington
Posts: 16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckster57
You do NOT bleed the air using the pressure relief valve. You need an “air gap” to allow for expansion. Once you know the bypass valve is in the correct position turn on a faucet hot knob and when you get a steady stream of water your good to go.
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Hi, and thank you for your response. This is the video that I watched that shows bleeding the valve.
Starts at the 0:50 mark.
https://youtu.be/91IrEuAH2X0?si=MWQRyGlj3Ox9hu6m
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