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Old 06-02-2023, 04:41 AM   #1
RickClayton
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Where's the Power?

Hello from Bremerton, WA. 2013 Nissan Titan and a 2016 Passport 234. First night of the season (late start). Passport was into Tacoma RV for annual inspection and passed with flying colors and hasn't been used since. KITSAP MEMORIAL state park (really close to home incase anything happens the first day out). Trailer is off the tv (tow vehicle), leveled, blocked, first thing plugged in is the surge protector (all green lights). Then plug in the power-cord to the trailer. Extend the awning. Next is the reefer, NO POWER. TV and microwave have power. NO OVERHEAD LIGHTS (no power). Recheck power post in the park, all green lights. Back in the Passport, all breakers and fuses are good. still NO POWER. Trip the GFIC that is in the bathroom and reset it. still NO POWER. PLZ HELP
Richard Clayton, USCG, RET.
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Old 06-02-2023, 04:54 AM   #2
Lee
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Hi,

Sounds like a DC problem, not AC as the TV and microwave work. Verify fuses.
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Old 06-02-2023, 05:32 AM   #3
RickClayton
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I pulled all fuses out and checked them, everything looks good. I am going today yto see if there is more than one GFIC.
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Old 06-02-2023, 05:36 AM   #4
jxnbbl
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So you are saying that you have some 12V and some 120V but not all.

a. awning works/lights don't
b. tv, microwave works/bath plug does not.
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Old 06-02-2023, 05:41 AM   #5
JRTJH
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First, What brand/model "surge protector" do you have with 4 green lights on it? A "$50 surge protector" won't protect your trailer from incorrect wiring, all it will do is "flash lights while the trailer burns down"... You need a "true EMS (energy management system)" not a "surge protector"... They typically run around $250 for a 30 amp style and $300+ for a 50 amp style. The automatically disconnect the trailer from any damaging electrical condition, not "just flash lights to warn you".... There is a "SIGNIFICANT" advantage to having an EMS rather than a surge protector.

That said,

Check your battery to make sure the POS + and NEG - cables are connected to the correct terminals on the battery.

Check that the battery cutoff switch is ON (if you have a battery cutoff switch).

Check the two "reverse polarity fuses" on the converter (if free standing type) or the two "reverse polarity fuses" on the faceplate of the trailer power center (if your converter is a part of the power center)...

Here's photos of the locations of the reverse polarity fuses, but I'd suspect that either the battery is connected wrong or that you "touched the battery cables to the wrong post on the battery during installation. It only takes a second or even less to blow those two reverse polarity fuses.
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Old 06-02-2023, 09:22 AM   #6
firestation12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RickClayton View Post
Hello from Bremerton, WA. 2013 Nissan Titan and a 2016 Passport 234. First night of the season (late start). Passport was into Tacoma RV for annual inspection and passed with flying colors and hasn't been used since. KITSAP MEMORIAL state park (really close to home incase anything happens the first day out). Trailer is off the tv (tow vehicle), leveled, blocked, first thing plugged in is the surge protector (all green lights). Then plug in the power-cord to the trailer. Extend the awning. Next is the reefer, NO POWER. TV and microwave have power. NO OVERHEAD LIGHTS (no power). Recheck power post in the park, all green lights. Back in the Passport, all breakers and fuses are good. still NO POWER. Trip the GFIC that is in the bathroom and reset it. still NO POWER. PLZ HELP
Richard Clayton, USCG, RET.
Something doesn’t add up here. So, you have a 30 amp circuit shore power cord, and if any of the 120 volt circuits have power, then all the 120 volt breakers are receiving voltage, and all the outlets should have power. I’d stop looking at the shore power connection and move on to something else. Let’s start with the microwave. Look for its male plug in the cabinet above the microwave. Is it plugged in? Try plugging in a toaster or something in the at outlet. Tell us what you find. Next, you say that you tripped the GFCI and then reset it. The GFCI cannot be tripped and reset if there is no 120 volts to it. Next, I’m assuming the “reefer” is the A/C not the refrigerator. If reefer is indeed the refrigerator then this could be a 12 volt problem not a 120 volt problem. Some things like the refrigerator need both 120 and 12 volts to function. The fact that you have no overhead lights leads to me suspect the 12 volt system is playing a part. Is the 12 volt main switch in the off position? If you can pull the key out then the switch is off. Do not use the general term “power is off”. You must be specific and state whether you have, or don’t have 12 volt and 120 volt things working/not working.
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