Battery disconnect switch. Oh how you deceive me. - Page 2

**JRTJH** · 05-03-2013, 09:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob Landry

I haven't tried to operate my slides or awning with the battery switch off, but I will, because my curiosity is now up..

Bob, I think the owner's manual states not to actuate the slide unless there is a battery in the system. Operating the slide with the battery cutoff switch in the off position is effectively the same thing as removing the battery from the circuit. I believe the reason for that caution is to prevent overloading the converter. If you get your "curiosity up" and start experimenting, you may damage your converter. Think it out before you start experimenting

RVbear · 05-04-2013, 06:34 AM

Very true. That is one reason that the large loads, slides & landing gear, are powered before the battery disconnect. There should be no parasitic loads associated with these components. That said, it appears that the control panel on my 2013 327res draws a slight amount of current to keep the "Panel Power" button dimly lit. This is evidenced by a slight arc when the negative battery lead is lifted. The panel itself is also powered before the disconnect switch. I'm still checking this out.

Jim Dow · 05-05-2013, 06:45 PM

I had a similar experience. I installed a for real battery cut-off switch in my Montana High Country.

rhagfo · 05-06-2013, 04:58 AM

I installed my own also, directly off the battery. I typically, never operate the slides with shore power connected always use only the battery. I have ended all parasitic draws.

wmcclay · 05-08-2013, 06:09 AM

When installing a battery cutoff switch it is a good idea not to include the brake pull switch. If you forget to turn on batterys you will have e brake system operational. With 5ers the chances are less than a pull trailer.

Wayne

Jim Dow · 06-23-2013, 01:33 PM

It's easy enough to install a "for sure" battery disconnect switch. I installed a second 12v battery (parallel), a keyed (lockable) battery disconnect (1, 2, or all) switch, and two Battery Tender chargers - just to have things under control. Just turn the dial/knob; no cables to disconnect/connect.

kiwi2000 · 07-03-2013, 10:56 AM

Someone in this thread states they store their battery over winter. But because it is toxic no doubt the reason for the shroud and venting to the exterior where would I store this thing?
Storing in our garage would be just as frigid as leaving it in the trailer.

So?

Festus2 · 07-03-2013, 11:49 AM

As long as you keep your battery charged, it can be stored in "frigid" conditions and places. If you have a trickle charger, keep it in your garage - if you have A/C power - and hooked up to your battery. Today's batteries can be safely stored on concrete contrary to the belief/myth that some still hold that they can't.

I leave my batteries outside in the 5th all winter. Mind you, we don't get many that many days of below freezing temperatures but have had a couple of 1 - 2 week long periods of temps around -10C. When this happens, I plug in the 5th wheel to the house and use the converter charger to keep the batteries up. I also plug it in every so often throughout the winter for the same reason.

Pmedic4 · 07-04-2013, 12:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kiwi2000

Someone in this thread states they store their battery over winter. But because it is toxic no doubt the reason for the shroud and venting to the exterior where would I store this thing?
Storing in our garage would be just as frigid as leaving it in the trailer.

So?

I take out my battery and put in the garage over the winter on on a battery minder. My storage location does not have power so I can't plug in my battery minder there, which is the main reason why I take out the battery. Previously, I've just left the battery in over the winter without charging, and had a battery sulfinate in the spring. Figure it only takes about 2 minutes more when winterizing, and might save the cost of an $80-90 battery in the spring.

Jim Dow · 07-07-2013, 06:24 PM

I chose to leave the 5er wired as it was; but I just don't like to disconnect/re-connect the batteries - when it's necessary to kill the whole thing. I chose to add a second battery (both batteries individually fused) and a lockable disconnect switch close to the battery box. That way, I can easily choose to use the 5er's wiring system as designed, or I can choose to disconnect the entire system without disturbing the wires.

kiwi2000 · 07-10-2013, 05:39 AM

Quote:

I typically, never operate the slides with shore power connected always use only the battery

OK I will bite.

Why would you not use shore power to operate the slides?

labs4life · 07-10-2013, 06:36 AM

The slide motor is a 12v motor.

kiwi2000 · 07-18-2013, 04:11 PM

Quote:

The slide motor is a 12v motor

So there is no choice then to operate between shore power and battery when operating the slides.

macattack · 08-26-2013, 06:51 AM

If like my 2012 Montana, the battery disconnect does NOT disconnect power to the hydraulic pump nor to the remote control system (might be a couple of other things I haven't discovered, too. Like maybe smoke and propane detectors?) Like others have said, I am not sure of the logic in this, but it does allow you to hook up and go without connecting power to the inside of the coach.

Nevertheless, I simply installed a second battery disconnect switch in the negative battery cable that connects to the coach chassis, and I can then be absolutely sure that all power is disconnected when in storage. Or save that cost and simply disconnect the negative battery lead.

Yosemitebob · 09-21-2013, 10:27 PM

I am in the process of installing a marine battery shut off switch. I to want everything off when I put it in storage, nothing should be left on. It is a simple project to do by the way, but the switch is not cheap.

kiwi2000 · 10-01-2013, 04:37 AM

I purchased the switch that was shown earlier in this forum http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...125_0076263386 and the cable as well.
My dealer wanted $200.00 to install it and said I was missing a piece, the mounting plate for the switch.

Does anyone know where to get this plate?
Would it be at the place that sells the switch,or?

**JRTJH** · 10-01-2013, 06:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kiwi2000

I purchased the switch that was shown earlier in this forum http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...125_0076263386 and the cable as well.
My dealer wanted $200.00 to install it and said I was missing a piece, the mounting plate for the switch.

Does anyone know where to get this plate?
Would it be at the place that sells the switch,or?

I used the same switch in my Springdale and simply put it in a $5 gray plastic outlet box and cover that I bought at Lowe's. There's no requirement to have a $200 plate to install the switch.

Here's a picture of what I did:

SAABDOCTOR · 10-01-2013, 07:15 AM

WELL FOR $195.00 more you may have gotten a metal box instead of a plastic box! that cosst a buck more than john's way and the dealer would take his family out for a nice dinner on you!

do it John's way you'll be fine and you and the DW can spend the rest on more camping time.

kiwi2000 · 10-01-2013, 09:35 AM

john posted a small picture I purchased the gear from a photo in another thread and included the purchased item in my post. Apparently a bracket of some sort is required.

**JRTJH** · 10-01-2013, 10:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kiwi2000

john posted a small picture I purchased the gear from a photo in another thread and included the purchased item in my post. Apparently a bracket of some sort is required.

If you click on that "small picture" it opens to about 5" x 7" and is much easier to see. I can't imagine why a bracket would be required to install the cut off switch. The box can be mounted anywhere on the trailer (only limited by the length of the wiring connected to the battery).

The link you posted (NAPA switch) is the same switch I used in the gray plastic box. I can't visualize the limitations you'd have or why you'd need a "special bracket" ?????????

You may also like: