Water Heater Bypass

[DNKCowboyFan]

I have a new Sprinter 334FWFLS, and this is my first time to try to winterize it. I have found the antifreeze suction hose and valve on the water pump, but the water heater seems a bit difficult to get to. Wondering if any other owners out there for this model have any words of wisdom. Does the heater have a bypass valve, and how is the best way to access it? Thanks

[GaryWT]

If it is not in your control center you will most likely need to remove a panel inside the trailer or storage to get to the water heater, usually 2-4 screws. Once there you should see a knob to turn. They seem to have gotten away from the 3 knob system and have just a one knob system.

[Don N.]

The bypass valve for my Sprinter is located behind a panel underneath the kitchen sink which is located directly behind the water heater. The panel has flexibility enough that allows me to reach behind to locate and turn the bypass valve. Like mine, the valve in yours should be inside the trailer somewhere directly behind the hot water heater

[mfifield01]

Do you only need to turn the valve if you use antifreeze? I didn't put antifreeze in the water lines last year, just the p-traps.

[busterbrown]

Originally Posted by mfifield01

Do you only need to turn the valve if you use antifreeze? I didn't put antifreeze in the water lines last year, just the p-traps.

The purpose of the bypass valve is to "bypass" the hot water tank and reroute the fresh water around it. You don't want to add antifreeze to your your HWT as it can be corrosive to anodes. Plus you'd have to had 6 gallons minimum to fill the tank! Very wasteful.

Per your signature, if you live in Austin, I would question why you would even need to add antifreeze to the system. Just blow out the lines if possible and call it a day. You'd be safe just to just drain your fresh water tank. Then turn on water pump and turn on each faucet for a few seconds to get most of the water out of each circuit. You'll never have a deep freeze or even an extended freeze period in the winter.

Other southern state members may chime in with best practices but winterizing in Texas is nothing like winterizing in Michigan.

[mfifield01]

Originally Posted by busterbrown

The purpose of the bypass valve is to "bypass" the hot water tank and reroute the fresh water around it. You don't want to add antifreeze to your your HWT as it can be corrosive to anodes. Plus you'd have to had 6 gallons minimum to fill the tank! Very wasteful.

Per your signature, if you live in Austin, I would question why you would even need to add antifreeze to the system. Just blow out the lines if possible and call it a day. You'd be safe just to just drain your fresh water tank. Then turn on water pump and turn on each faucet for a few seconds to get most of the water out of each circuit. You'll never have a deep freeze or even an extended freeze period in the winter.

Other southern state members may chime in with best practices but winterizing in Texas is nothing like winterizing in Michigan.

I don't add antifreeze to the lines. I just blow them out and put some antifreeze in the p-traps. Most people don't even winterize, but there can be a few days below freezing.

A few years ago, I heard of boat engine blocks cracking in outside storage. So it's possible to get cold enough to freeze lines.

[Tbos]

I live in MD and don't pump pink into the lines. I blow them out and add pink to the p-traps and the dump valves.


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[ctbruce]

Originally Posted by Tbos

I live in MD and don't pump pink into the lines. I blow them out and add pink to the p-traps and the dump valves.


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When you blow out the lines does this take care of the water pump also? What do you do about the black tank flush. I'd like to try this method this year and don't want to miss anything!

Chip Bruce, RPh
Kansas City, MO
2016 Fuzion Impact 312
2015 Chevrolet Silverado LTZ
WELL....THAT WAS FUN!

[Pmedic4]

Originally Posted by ctbruce

When you blow out the lines does this take care of the water pump also? What do you do about the black tank flush. I'd like to try this method this year and don't want to miss anything!

That was my fear with just blowing out the lines, that water would remain in the pump. When I winterized, I had a trip planned to Florida in January, and didn't want to put any more anti-freeze in than needed for the traps, and then the thought of the pump having water in it still haunted me. I went back to the storage yard 2 days later and just ran water into the pump, and out the cold water of the sink next to the pump.

Back to the original question of this post, our water heater bypass valve is behind a panel held in with 4 screws. Easy enough.

[Tbos]

I also blow out the black tank flush. I drain the FW tank. Run the pump till it's dry. I also temporarily disconnect the pump hoses to make sure there is no more water in them.

[DNKCowboyFan]

Thanks you everyone for your posts. I did locate the bypass valve through an access hole in the storage unit (although the hole was cut too far forward to get you arm in to the valve, so I modified it a bit). After all the posts, I went with blowing out the lines with air method, and just used antifreeze in the P-traps and tanks. The trailer is on a lake site in eastern Oklahoma, and it was down to 9 degrees here last night. Sure this will be a good test for how well I did on getting it winterized.

[xrated]

Originally Posted by DNKCowboyFan

Thanks you everyone for your posts. I did locate the bypass valve through an access hole in the storage unit (although the hole was cut too far forward to get you arm in to the valve, so I modified it a bit). After all the posts, I went with blowing out the lines with air method, and just used antifreeze in the P-traps and tanks. The trailer is on a lake site in eastern Oklahoma, and it was down to 9 degrees here last night. Sure this will be a good test for how well I did on getting it winterized.

This is ONE test that you do NOT want to fail!

[the sodfather]

Originally Posted by busterbrown

The purpose of the bypass valve is to "bypass" the hot water tank and reroute the fresh water around it. You don't want to add antifreeze to your your HWT as it can be corrosive to anodes. Plus you'd have to had 6 gallons minimum to fill the tank! Very wasteful.

Per your signature, if you live in Austin, I would question why you would even need to add antifreeze to the system. Just blow out the lines if possible and call it a day. You'd be safe just to just drain your fresh water tank. Then turn on water pump and turn on each faucet for a few seconds to get most of the water out of each circuit. You'll never have a deep freeze or even an extended freeze period in the winter.

Other southern state members may chime in with best practices but winterizing in Texas is nothing like winterizing in Michigan.

We hit 22 degrees and were below 32 for more than 12 hrs. just south of Austin. I drained and blew out lines. Dumped pink in each drain. No problems. I may wrap some heat tape around the water heater next time and plug it in for peace of mind next time.

[chuckster57]

FWIW, a few years ago my trailer sat in the backyard for 7 days: 17* at night and a high of 40 during the day. I didn't do anything and didn't have any issues.