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Old 07-10-2016, 04:55 PM   #1
NFDDJS
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3820FK and adding generator

So we are looking at a new 3820FK, I sold my older Newmar pusher and are going to try the 5th wheel out for a few years. I am sure many of you have dealt with the issue I have and might be able to let me know if I am moving in the right direction or not.

We do alot of camping in remote areas with no RV park in the area. So not have power will be very often. In 5 years of camping I can only think of 6 six times we were at a RV park or had powder. So how do I run the A/C going down the road to keep it cool and how do we run everything at night in the parking lot where we rest while traveling?

My thought was to mount a diesel 50amp 8K generator on the rear of the 5th wheel and tie it in to the power. That way I can start is a few hours before we stop to it is cooler off or warmed up before we stop. That will also let us run the A/C, TV, ect while we are in the unit with out having to find a place to plug in.

What do you all do and what are your thoughts?

Thanks!
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Old 07-10-2016, 06:08 PM   #2
Jgkopp
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We have this rig. There is a prep for a gen in front compartment. I would not think the rear bumper could hold much of anything. This rig also has a 18 cu ft RV refrigerator. It can run on propane but has some circulation fans so I am not sure how long the 12v system will hold up as we have been plugged in.

Tow rig needs to be plenty big with added gen and the fact this is a big 5ver to begin with.
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Old 07-10-2016, 06:22 PM   #3
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Unless you plan on reinforcing the bumper or by welding a platform onto the frame, I wouldn't carry an 8k generator (or any generator for that matter) there. The additional weight would result in a lot of bounce and stress.

I would also be concerned about the noise coming from that big a generator which would be "sitting out in the open" in a parking lot. I for one wouldn't want to parked beside or close to you. If you're thinking about Walmart or other similar parking lots, I'd check what their policy is about running a generator while parked there for the night - especially one of that size.
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Old 07-10-2016, 06:34 PM   #4
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3820FK and adding generator

Following discussion. I have a Champion 3500 inverter. I would like to add it on a carrier on the class 1 hitch.
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Old 07-10-2016, 06:53 PM   #5
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If it's something you would be using that often, I would get the generator installed in the 5er front compartment. I don't have one in mine, but it is prepped for one if I ever want to add it. Many trailers are available with the generator or at least with the generator prep package making it easier to add one. I'm not that familiar with the Cougar, but I know the luxury line Alpine and Montana have them as well as the toy haulers.
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Old 07-10-2016, 07:48 PM   #6
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5500 Onan LP gen in the front compartment is very common. I have installed a number of them including auto transfer switch, remote start and even surge protector.

It will run 3 roof A/C units at once, I did it on a toy hauler.
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Old 07-11-2016, 06:55 AM   #7
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I have looked at the option of adding a generator to the front of the 5er but ended up nixing the option because it would added to much weight to the pin.
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Old 07-11-2016, 11:00 PM   #8
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Same here. The numbers don't work on a rear entertainment fiver when you install the Onan in the front compartment.

I don't even know why they bothered making it an option. You can't get enough weight rearward to balance the trailer and any weight you add back there is even more overall weight.

You'd bust right through the trailer's GVWR on the sticker.

Which is probably why they prep for it but you never see it installed on my model. It's nearly impossible not to bust one of the limits with that much weight forward.

I've been drooling over having someone beef up the rear frame and make a housing and what not for our Honda 3500 back there after seeing some folks do it here. That actually works with the numbers and lowers pin weight.
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Old 07-12-2016, 04:52 AM   #9
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One of the things people don't account for in aftermarket generator installation is the ventilation required to properly cool the unit. These are air cooled units and require both fresh air and exhaust ducting needs when enclosed within a compartment. My factory installed Onan moves an incredible amount of air which blows out the bottom of the compartment. The "Gen Prep" units are designed to work with a particular type of RV generator that can plug right into the available ducting - such as the Onan. To stick some other generator into the compartment and not account for air-flow will only end up with problems or possible safety issues.

My $.02 is if you intend to use a generator prep compartment, to only use a compatible unit such as Onan. If you plan to use a standalone generator then make it just that - standalone and place it externally (ground, truck bed, etc.).
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Old 07-12-2016, 06:49 AM   #10
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SO I have a Cougar 336 BHS with a rear slide out bikerack rated from the factory rated for 200lbs. I have been toying with the idea of putting my 85 lb champion 3100 invverter generator back there and ratchet strapping it down and plugging it right in to the trailer to run the a/c when going down the road on the way to our final destination. The outside kitchen also as an electric refrigerator that could run keeping our stuff cold. This seems like a reasonable solution to me? As the rack is rated for 200lbs of bikes I dontsee what the harm would be in doing this. I have a short 50 to 30 amp camco conversion cord off amazon to plug it in with.
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Old 07-12-2016, 07:57 AM   #11
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I still don't get why everyone needs to start the generator and cool down the trailer before you get to where you are going.
I have been boondocking for 20 years and in that time stayed in maybe 10 campgrounds.
When we boondock first thing that happens is I unhook and unload the generator. By the time I get it started and hooked up, the slides out, the rug out, the awning set, the chairs out and the truck parked the inside is cooler than I am and ready to sit down and enjoy. Going to a campground is even easier as it is just plug in and flip the switch while setting up the outside and let it cool down.
Running a generator while driving down the road to me can invite way too many headaches. What is something shorts out. You would not have a clue until you get where you are going and by then could be too late. You could have an overheat on the generator and burn up a motor or generator unit and never know. You could also possible get a fire started and never know until it is too late.
I have never camped in 110 degree weather but even if I did I still don't think running the generator early would help much.
I usually open the vents on the roof and that will help with airflow while driving down the road and help get rid of some of the stale hot air before getting to where we are going.
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Old 07-13-2016, 06:16 PM   #12
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What generator are you using? I want to be about to run both A/C units while using TV ect
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Old 07-13-2016, 06:25 PM   #13
Ram189
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I have never run the 2nd ac. I have a Honda 3000 and love it.

I have run ac, directv, on 2 sets and had no problem.
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Old 07-14-2016, 11:15 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NFDDJS View Post
What generator are you using? I want to be about to run both A/C units while using TV ect
You will likely need a 4500KW or better unit. Each AC pulls 15 amps + converter and TV.

KW / 120V = Amps
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Old 07-22-2016, 06:01 PM   #15
2Savages
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We have the 3820FK and had the dealer installed the propane ONAN 5.5K generator at time of delivery. While it was expensive, I feel better about them wiring it to the unit and installing the extra metal sheets to shield it and dampen the noise level. I like the propane, so I don't have to haul additional diesel or gas.
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