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Old 11-14-2017, 09:51 AM   #21
SteveC7010
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You say that propane is expensive, but there are some mitigating circumstances. As Russ pointed out so well, the unit and installation plus possible mods or additions to your 110vac wiring system will add up quickly.

If you are parked in one place for the whole season, you could always have the local propane company set one or two 100# tanks for you.

You never did answer the question about paying for electricity. If you are paying separately for it, which a lot of seasonal or year round campgrounds do, the cost of electric heat for the season added to the add-on system will probably be equal to or exceed the cost of propane for the same time period.

I think it would also be helpful for the conversation if you could give us an idea of how cold it gets where you are for the winter. That will certainly affect cost for either sources.

Here's what I would consider first if the winters typically did not get below mid-20's F. I'd have 2 100# propane tanks delivered and filled plus have my two normal 30# tanks filled and in place as a back up. I'd purchase some longer propane pigtails that will reach the 100#ers which will stand about 5' tall next to the trailer. I would also find myself one or two 4" electric fans which will install inline in the round flex heat ducts to improve air flow way beyond what the furnace would normally produce.

I'd also spend some time and money tightening up the trailer against the cold. Even with the supposed "poplar package" or "4 season package", these TT's and 5er's are not at all energy efficient. They leak warm air out and cold air in exceedingly well. Most of your windows are single pane so they are a big source of heat loss plus they are condensate magnets. Realistically, all the walls in the rig are pretty thin and will accumulate condensation. There are a number of previous threads here about preparing your rig for winter use, and it is certain that just adding depth to your heating source is not adequate. There's a lot of other work to be done to get through the winter safely and comfortably.

And we haven't even begun to talk about your plumbing....
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Old 11-14-2017, 08:18 PM   #22
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What Steve said above, x2.

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Old 11-14-2017, 08:36 PM   #23
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There are a couple of old (2-3 years ago) about this system. That's when it first came on the market. I'm sure since then, it's been improved, but the limitations on using it probably remain the same for most of us. If someone is paying for electricity on their "long term site" then it's usually close to a wash whether to pay for electric heat or propane heat. Both cost very close to the same and the furnace fan will run (noise) nearly the same amount of time with either. The electric system doesn't "lose heat" via the exhaust, so the 17,000 BTU (for the 50 amp system) is comparable to a 30,000 or 35,000 BTU furnace which loses about half its BTU input in the exhaust and furnace inefficiency. The actual "heat delivered to the trailer ducting" is similar in both systems.

If someone is set up at a site that absorbs the electricity in the site rent, then it's probably advantageous to find a means to heat electrically. That might include one or more small electric heaters or it might be a $750 furnace "add on". At $29 for a small self contained heater, it would take a lot of nights for most of us to justify nearly a thousand dollars for an electric furnace option. At that price, adding an overhead heat pump isn't much more expensive.

The advantage that I can see for the electric "add-on" is the capability to maintain the "factory basement heat ducting" during extremely cold weather.

I'd urge anyone considering this optional means of providing heat to do some searching on the forum for past discussions.

I will say that for a typical "spring/summer/fall" RV user, chances are it would take far more years to recoup the investment than most of us will own the RV. For a "full timer" maybe it would be different, depending on how they travel and the terms of their site rental.

It may be a "good deal" for some, depending on how they use their RV and the arrangements they have for payment of propane/electric consumption. For others, maybe it's not a way to save money or maybe even it's a way to spend far more than they'll ever recoup. Anyone considering an expense of nearly $1,000 for an optional furnace heating system needs to weigh all the factors before making a final decision.
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Old 11-15-2017, 01:57 AM   #24
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Is also add in what adding one may do to your potential resale value.

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Old 11-15-2017, 07:39 AM   #25
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Good point, one thing is to cool/heat the air, although equally important is to move that conditioned air throughout your your rig.
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Old 11-16-2017, 06:24 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by travelin texans View Post
Is there a problem with your gas furnace or are you not paying for electricity? I know they are huge propane hogs so I wonder if it would a lot of electricity also.
I think it would be much less costly to just plug in a couple electric heaters. Also most rvs have a duct that dumps into the underbelly to help somewhat with keeping water lines & tanks warm.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tammy1959 View Post
Propane is costly plus it is just me and hard to lift full tanks back into place. I will probably just have to use heaters. If i can keep breakers from flipping. Thanks for your input.
Many question the cost for the Cheap Heat system, well what is the cost of safety?

I see many post about using electric space heaters. Well my Dad was a city Firefighter, saw way too many winter fires started by space heaters both electric, or fueled. The electric both items coming in contact with hot surface, and/or wiring faults causing the fire.

We also have two dogs, and I would worry about them knocking something into contact with a space heater when we were away.

It is stories like this that made me think it was worth the cost. There are way to many stories like this every year.

http://katu.com/news/local/fire-chie...die-in-rv-fire
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Old 11-16-2017, 07:36 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rhagfo View Post
Many question the cost for the Cheap Heat system, well what is the cost of safety?

I see many post about using electric space heaters. Well my Dad was a city Firefighter, saw way too many winter fires started by space heaters both electric, or fueled. The electric both items coming in contact with hot surface, and/or wiring faults causing the fire.

We also have two dogs, and I would worry about them knocking something into contact with a space heater when we were away.

It is stories like this that made me think it was worth the cost. There are way to many stories like this every year.

http://katu.com/news/local/fire-chie...die-in-rv-fire
That's why I bought the Vornado heater. The heat coil is inside and it circulates air via a fan. Also, I keep mine on the 750w setting at night to reduce electrical strain on the RV wiring. My situation is a little different, since I use it as supplemental heat (and only part of the year).
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Old 11-17-2017, 08:14 AM   #28
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Electric oil filled heaters are about the safest and you can put a pot of water on them for humidity too.
I use one in the basement on lot and another in the living room
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Old 11-17-2017, 12:19 PM   #29
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The reply about the tanks are heavy. Yes, they are. IF, your at a rv park, I am willing to bet there is a propane co, that comes into the park to refill others. Have him refill the 30 # bottles or rent a 30 or 50 gal tank. I did that for years at my coast home. The delivery cost per gal is the same as you taking the bottles to them. For extra heat I used a oil electric heater, placed where and when I needed it. That was for the park model trailer. The house had a furnace that was very good and no other heat was needed.
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Old 11-19-2017, 06:56 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikell View Post
Electric oil filled heaters are about the safest and you can put a pot of water on them for humidity too.
I use one in the basement on lot and another in the living room
Interesting about the pot of water, most want to remove rather than add humidity during the winter to prevent condensation.
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Old 11-21-2017, 07:55 AM   #31
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.

Had this one show up on a Amazon ad. More of a RV sized unit at 1200 watts and 7" x 18" x 15".


https://www.amazon.ca/gp/r.html?C=2U...740_em_1p_4_ti


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Old 11-21-2017, 04:11 PM   #32
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I use oil filled heaters in all my shop buildings much like the one for sale on Amazon. You can buy them for a good deal less money at any Walmart. We carry a small electric heater (about 8x8) and it has warmed all our RVs nicely. It is 110V.
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Old 11-22-2017, 09:25 AM   #33
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I do pay for electricity. Where I live it can 3 degrees one day and 60 the next. Lenoir City Tn. I am all new to this and everyone has had great input. I will check into propane deliveries in my area and get thru this season. There are also things I can do to improve keeping my heat in and not losing through windows and such.
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Old 11-22-2017, 09:37 AM   #34
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We had a short period of no heat at our Colorado house last week with temps in low 20s. Bought two oil-filled heaters at HD for $40 each. One warmed the whole house very nicely until got the regular heat back on. True, its not a huge house but a lot bigger than the RV.
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Old 11-22-2017, 12:13 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barbell View Post
We had a short period of no heat at our Colorado house last week with temps in low 20s. Bought two oil-filled heaters at HD for $40 each. One warmed the whole house very nicely until got the regular heat back on. True, its not a huge house but a lot bigger than the RV.
And probably your house is a LOT better insulated !!!!! Most homes are R19 walls, R40 ceiling and R30 floors and built with double pane windows. Most RVs are R9 walls, R9-20 ceiling and R9-20 floor with single pane windows. So, it would be "sort of like" opening your doors and windows and trying to heat your house.... But, it is better than nothing !!!!!
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