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Old 06-23-2015, 06:44 PM   #1
shov
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12 v system. NEED HELP PLEASE

Okay. Just set up my Alpine and I was getting ready to leave it and head home. Wanted to check the fridge to make sure it was running on propane before I left. No lights on the front lit up. No 12v anywhere. Batteries have a charge because I can start the onboard generator with the same batteries. Checked the 2 40 amp fuses and they appear good. Any trouble shooting ideas. TIA


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Old 06-23-2015, 06:57 PM   #2
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Just checked and I have power at the 2 40 Amp fuses at the converter. I am sure it's something simple just can't think.


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Old 06-23-2015, 06:59 PM   #3
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Master switch still off?

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Old 06-23-2015, 07:09 PM   #4
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The master battery with is on. Is that the master switch you mean?


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Old 06-23-2015, 07:27 PM   #5
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Make sure all the 12V fuses are good. Then go out to the access panel that opens the back of the fridge. On the bottom you should see a connection that has two wires attached to it coming from somewhere and two that go from that connection to the fridge.

One will be white and the other may be orange, red, or any other color they used that day at the factory. WHITE is negative. Check for 12VDC on both sides of that connection. If you do have it, then turn the batteries off and make sure to unplug the AC cord.

There will be a control board on the left side with a cover on it. Once you take the cover off, look for the two glass fuses, one is for the 110V and the other is for the 12V. It should be obvious if one is blown.
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Old 06-23-2015, 07:31 PM   #6
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On the back of the refrigerator, inside the lower outside vent, on the lower left hand side of the refrigerator is a black plastic cover. Behind that cover are two glass cartridge fuses. One is 5 amps and one is 3 amps (I think). Take a phillips screwdriver, remove the two screws holding that plastic cover in place and check the actual refrigerator fuses. You may find that's your problem..

Looks like Chuckster57 and I were both typing at the same time......
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Old 06-23-2015, 07:38 PM   #7
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The 12v fuses on the converter?


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Old 06-23-2015, 07:40 PM   #8
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The other bad thing is I don't have any way of testing. No light. No amp meter.

Also it's not just the fridge. It's the entire 12 volt system. No 12v lights. Nothing except to the generator


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Old 06-23-2015, 08:10 PM   #9
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12 v system. NEED HELP PLEASE

There should be a fuse or circuit breaker close to the battery. Follow the positive wire from the battery. Should be the BLACK wire or RED.
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Old 06-24-2015, 03:46 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckster57 View Post
There should be a fuse or circuit breaker close to the battery. Follow the positive wire from the battery. Should be the BLACK wire or RED.

That's what I was looking for. I will be going back down this afternoon with a meter and test light. I didn't immediately see a fuse or circuit breaker but it may be in a panel.

Also what is the purpose of crossing the positive like this?


Thanks for everyone's help and input.

I like being the guy to read and learn from others topics and replies rather than being the guy needed it!


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Old 06-24-2015, 04:06 AM   #11
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Well heck! JRJTH, I was reading an earlier post where you were helping out with power to an awning. And presto.

Are the fuses available only at RV dealerships or like many things are they available at HomeDepot as well?

Also what is the "technical" name?

Thanks everyone


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Old 06-24-2015, 04:18 AM   #12
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Sorry, JRTJH...^^^


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Old 06-24-2015, 04:22 AM   #13
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The reason for two circuit breakers is there are two separate loads.
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Old 06-24-2015, 04:31 AM   #14
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Thanks Chuckster, when I asked with the picture I didn't realize that they were fuses. So when I go back down today I hope that is my problem. I am still very new to the inner complexities of recreational vehicles


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Old 06-24-2015, 04:45 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shov View Post
Well heck! JRJTH, I was reading an earlier post where you were helping out with power to an awning. And presto.

Are the fuses available only at RV dealerships or like many things are they available at HomeDepot as well?

Also what is the "technical" name?

Thanks everyone


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I think you're asking about the 12 VDC circuit breakers with the red plastic cap? If so, they are available at any RV parts dealer, some Auto Zone stores have them, NAPA has them in one store near me, but they are "special order" in the NAPA store closest to me. I've never seen them in HD or Lowe's. So, if you have an RV dealer close, they will have them (about $5 each) and it is "hit and miss" at auto parts stores and none in "big box stores".....

Here is one source: http://www.amazon.com/QUALITY-BUSSMA...xgy_263_text_y
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Old 06-24-2015, 04:54 AM   #16
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I think you're asking about the 12 VDC circuit breakers with the red plastic cap?
Yes Sir, those are exactly what I was wondering, I didn't realize they were fuses. Now I do! Hopefully I don't continue to learn through the School of Hard Knocks.

How often do these fuses blow? I guess its safe to say that I will buy a couple of extras to have on hand.

Thanks again all, I will report back this evening!
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Old 06-24-2015, 05:10 AM   #17
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They are "auto reset" circuit breakers and "shouldn't need replacement" (but anything mechanical is subject to failure). Actually, they are a "thermal relay" that opens when too much current (amperage) flows through them and then automatically "reset" once they cool down.

They are prone to failure (from corrosion caused by water intrusion) on travel trailers. They are usually mounted on the tongue A-frame or the bulkhead crossmember. Usually they don't fail on fifth wheels because they are mounted inside the front compartment, out of the weather.

When you mount new ones, DON'T remove the two nuts on the terminals, they are a part of the structure. Slip your wiring onto the terminals and use additional nuts to hold them in place. If you remove the "base nut" from the terminal, it can damage the internal connections and cause the circuit breaker to fail.

Hopefully, one of them will be your "problem", but check closely because they are usually reliable in fifth wheel applications. Good Luck !!!
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Old 06-24-2015, 05:36 AM   #18
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Also make sure if you replace them to put the wires on the right posts. There is a load side and feed side.
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Old 06-24-2015, 06:09 AM   #19
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You guys are the best!

Excuse my ignorance with this question, if they aren't prone to fail, what is the best way to test them?

And again if they aren't prone to fail, do I need to buy a stand by set for the future or just the 2 I may or may not need?
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Old 06-24-2015, 07:46 AM   #20
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testing c/b's

You will need a multi meter or test light. If they are good you will have voltage (12 VDC ) on both terminals. If you only have voltage on one terminal and not the other it is bad.
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