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Old 12-29-2019, 05:59 AM   #21
Weekender 1
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If you suspect a parasitic draw since you say only the fridge should be drawing power then with a simple meter or a 12 volt light tester, you try this method.


https://www.wikihow.com/Find-a-Parasitic-Battery-Drain


Same method will work with a light tester hooked up in the same fashion.
Don't worry about it being for a auto, its the same thing.
This way you can possible find where the draw is and go from there if ots not a battery problem itself.
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Old 01-02-2020, 08:15 AM   #22
sonofcy
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Originally Posted by nickofosho View Post
Thanks for all the input!

The batteries are wired in parallel. The issue only occurs when not connected to shore power or to a generator. They have both been load tested and work fine. I have tried fully charging each battery independently (with the trailer's converter and confirming with the trailer battery monitor and a volt meter) and only connecting one at a time to the trailer and always get the same result. A dead battery in a few hours.

I've monitored them with a volt meter many times and as soon as they are hooked up to the trailer, they begin loosing voltage, about 1/10 volt in 5-10 minutes. When they are disconnected, the voltage remains stable/consistent.

They have never gone completely dead or anything below 10.5v. The trailer is always stored plugged into shore power and is rarely in storage for more than a month.

The emergency break away cable is intact and functional.

Is it possible that some short in the wiring could be causing a extreme parasitic draw?

Thanks again everyone!
orry, but if they are 12V then they are very poor batteries for this application. I removed my 2 12V and replaced with two Trojan T105 6V and gained 50% more power. Secondly, if you don't have a shunt to measure the battery state then you are operating in the dark. If you run the batteries below 50% then they will be very quickly ruined and I mean in days to weeks.
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Old 01-02-2020, 08:18 AM   #23
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First things first

Before you start all the battery testing/troubleshooting, take 10 seconds and be sure you have not accidentally pulled the emergency brake cable.
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Old 01-02-2020, 08:50 AM   #24
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You can then hook just the good one back up to give you some power and then get a replacement for the bad one.
Never replace only one battery in a multiple battery setup, replace both with identical matching batteries, or the old will will weaken the new.
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Old 01-02-2020, 09:02 AM   #25
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Ok, here's my last attempt to help you find out if it's the battery. Charge the batteries, remove the camper batteries. Put one of them in your tow vehicle and wait overnight. If the battery starts the truck (I.e. the starter sounds like it's cranking the engine at the same speed) then it's not THAT battery. Instead rv battery #2 into the TV and repeat.
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Old 01-02-2020, 10:39 AM   #26
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We have a 2019 Keystone Passport 240BH. The latest in the long list of issues we've had with our trailer is that both batteries, after being fully charged, will die in about 3 - 4 hours with nothing on in the trailer. I've tested both batteries (Interstate Deep cycle RV) and they seem to be fine. A year ago when we first got the trailer, with normal, conservative use, they would last about 36 - 48 hours. Now, if we full charge them and go to bed with only the propane fridge running, they are dead in about 3-4 hours. It seems that something is sucking them dry. The only odd electrical issues we've had is an exterior light by the jack seems to have died, even though the bulb is still fine. Any suggestions?
One other possibility is that the batteries are being over-charged by the OEM battery charger. This can also ruin batteries. When left on shore power, the battery charger should drop down to a "trickle charge" and not just keep ramming amps into the batteries. I replaced the OEM 3-stage battery charger in my trailer with an Iota 4-stage charger. My batteries are AGMs, and Iota makes a "Smart IQ" module sepcifically for them.
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Old 01-02-2020, 10:41 AM   #27
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Never replace only one battery in a multiple battery setup, replace both with identical matching batteries, or the old will will weaken the new.
If one battery is still in excellent condition there's nothing wrong with buying just one battery to replace the bad one. I've done it a number of times with no problem. To say that you should "never" change out just one battery makes no sense. Yes, it's ideal to change out both, but not everyone has an extra $400 burning a hole in his pocket. If this guy did, he could pay for a technician to come out and diagnose and repair his problem and job done. Not everybody is loaded with cash.
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Old 01-02-2020, 12:18 PM   #28
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Look at your batteries. Most batteries labeled as deep cycle are not deep cycle. If they say CCA anywhere on them or are not close to 100 pounds each, they are not deep cycle batteries. It is normal for batteries labeled as deep cycle that aren't deep cycle to last only 6 months to a year. Especially if they are allowed to go dead even once.
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Old 01-02-2020, 01:26 PM   #29
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If one battery is still in excellent condition there's nothing wrong with buying just one battery to replace the bad one. I've done it a number of times with no problem. To say that you should "never" change out just one battery makes no sense. Yes, it's ideal to change out both, but not everyone has an extra $400 burning a hole in his pocket. If this guy did, he could pay for a technician to come out and diagnose and repair his problem and job done. Not everybody is loaded with cash.

I think the red above is the issue when discussing replacing RV batteries. The OP has stated that the batteries are a year old and he has had repeated problems. "Knowing" you have an excellent battery after a year of use/abuse in an RV is an iffy thing. Can you put one new one in with an old one? Sure. Will you get the same performance and longevity that you would have if both were replaced? Doubtful And, if the one you "thought" was in excellent shape really isn't, it will cannibalize the new battery and deteriorate them both. BTDT. The OP also stated that he had Interstate RV Deep Cycle batteries. I'm assuming it is their hybrid Deep Cycle like I have. They won't cost 400 to replace but more like 2-250. I'm with Danny on this one since I've been burned trusting an existing battery - and the OP has had ongoing issues, no need to leave open the possibility of further problems due to the lack of replacing one. JMO/YMMV
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Old 01-02-2020, 03:40 PM   #30
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Tank Heaters

If you have a winter package, have you checked to make sure the 12V tank heaters have not accidentally turned on? That would be a significant load.
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Old 01-04-2020, 07:58 AM   #31
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Is there some system that can be set up to shut off batteries when they reach 50%. I'm thinking in the middle of the night when you're not watching a monitor and the furnace is running. I'd rather have it get a bit cool than run that battery down to 20% or even 0.
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Old 01-04-2020, 09:09 AM   #32
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Is there some system that can be set up to shut off batteries when they reach 50%. I'm thinking in the middle of the night when you're not watching a monitor and the furnace is running. I'd rather have it get a bit cool than run that battery down to 20% or even 0.
I'm sure there are a number of systems that can be installed to do that. Here's the situation (as I see it):

You can pay $200 to install a system to monitor your battery usage and shut it off so you don't discharge your battery/batteries overnight or you can pay 200 to install a battery system that will "run all night with power to spare"....

For me, I'd prefer installing additional batteries to obtain enough power that I can make it through the night without needing a monitor system to shut down power to protect the batteries from deep discharge....

Typically, with most RV's, two GP27 12 volt batteries in parallel or two GC2 6 volt batteries in series will provide more than enough power to make it through the night, power the furnace all night and even provide power for a couple hours of TV before bed and also power the water pump for a comfortable (quick) shower.

Keep in mind that even a 8 or 10 battery system won't run the microwave and air conditioner through the night, so some "restraint in power consumption" is going to be necessary with any RV, unless you include a generator in your "overnight power consumption".
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Old 01-04-2020, 08:11 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by Weekender 1 View Post
If you suspect a parasitic draw since you say only the fridge should be drawing power then with a simple meter or a 12 volt light tester, you try this method.

https://www.wikihow.com/Find-a-Parasitic-Battery-Drain
Given that the OP now says that the drain makes itself painfully obvious immediately on a simple multimeter, I'd modify the procedure in this article.

Start with ALL your fuses removed (don't mix them up) and put the meter on the battery.

If you see the drain immediately, either you have a damaged cable between the battery and the fusebox, or someone has wired the culprit item directly into the battery without going through the fusebox. (Note: emergency brake circuits, and often the tongue jack, are wired in precisely this manner, so they may be culprits.)

If the meter shows no droop, then put the fuses back one by one until the droop shows up.
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Old 01-04-2020, 08:19 PM   #34
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Is there some system that can be set up to shut off batteries when they reach 50%. I'm thinking in the middle of the night when you're not watching a monitor and the furnace is running. I'd rather have it get a bit cool than run that battery down to 20% or even 0.
https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Prote.../dp/B07H4T3LS7

$13 at Amazon, but you will want to wire your actual coach feed lines through a relay, and figure out the job without much help in the way of an instruction sheet. However, people in the comments say they are using it on RVs in precisely this fashion.
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Old 01-05-2020, 05:47 AM   #35
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I had a similar problem a few years ago. I'm running two, six volt batteries in series. The problem turned out to be a dirty connection(s). It didn't look dirty but apparently there was some kind of unseen junk on one or more of the connections. After I thoroughly cleaned all the terminals and the connections (including the jumper, I'm pretty sure it was the jumper) with a wire brush and some battery connector cleaning, they started working fine.


The truth is, I spent the better part of a summer tracing this problem down. It should have been the first place I looked. But the symptoms, just led me else where.


I don't know if this is your problem, but I never saw anywhere that you mention cleaning the battery connections.


Good luck.
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Old 01-05-2020, 10:41 AM   #36
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https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Prote.../dp/B07H4T3LS7

$13 at Amazon, but you will want to wire your actual coach feed lines through a relay, and figure out the job without much help in the way of an instruction sheet. However, people in the comments say they are using it on RVs in precisely this fashion.
I don't consider 3 out of 5 stars a very favorable review. I would not recommend this course of action for several reasons.

The skill set required to properly engineer and install a project like this is more than the "novice" that barely understands a VOM.

The added cost of the proper relay, with the proper 12v coil, and all the wiring, labeling, terminals, etc. would most likely exceed the install cost of going with a dual battery set up as John previously suggested.

The added "parasitic drain would be "self defeating". The controller you cited would add a small drain but the relay, necessary to transfer all the amperage for everything in the camper would be much greater. These devices, by design would have to disconnect power when the voltage drops, therefore they must "drop out" or disengage so that requires a "NO" (normally open) so the coil must be energized (drawing current) for it to work.
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Old 01-05-2020, 11:33 AM   #37
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I don't consider 3 out of 5 stars a very favorable review.
Most of the downvotes were for "there were no instructions and I couldn't figure it out," and "doesn't handle big power (i.e., needs relay)." I believe I discussed these factors sufficiently in my posting. The people who powered through the lack of instructions gave the unit high marks.

Other than that, the OP asked a question, and I gave him the information he asked for. I'm sorry the equipment I find doesn't seem to be up to your quality standards.
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Old 01-05-2020, 12:15 PM   #38
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Most of the downvotes were for "there were no instructions and I couldn't figure it out," and "doesn't handle big power (i.e., needs relay)." I believe I discussed these factors sufficiently in my posting. The people who powered through the lack of instructions gave the unit high marks.

Other than that, the OP asked a question, and I gave him the information he asked for. I'm sorry the equipment I find doesn't seem to be up to your quality standards.
Not criticizing the equipment or your post, just pointing out the obvious. I attempt to give a "full picture" when talking about a mod such as this. Not everyone reading these posts are engineers nor claim to be and from the inquiry it indicates a lack of in-depth knowledge on the subject. Therefore, I'd hate to see an unknowing person enter into a mod without all the knowledge possible so I share what I know and have experienced.
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Old 01-05-2020, 12:17 PM   #39
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Thanks for all the input!

The batteries are wired in parallel. The issue only occurs when not connected to shore power or to a generator. They have both been load tested and work fine. I have tried fully charging each battery independently (with the trailer's converter and confirming with the trailer battery monitor and a volt meter) and only connecting one at a time to the trailer and always get the same result. A dead battery in a few hours.

I've monitored them with a volt meter many times and as soon as they are hooked up to the trailer, they begin loosing voltage, about 1/10 volt in 5-10 minutes. When they are disconnected, the voltage remains stable/consistent.

They have never gone completely dead or anything below 10.5v. The trailer is always stored plugged into shore power and is rarely in storage for more than a month.

The emergency break away cable is intact and functional.

Is it possible that some short in the wiring could be causing a extreme parasitic draw?

Thanks again everyone!
The standard converter takes many hours or even days to properly fully recharge a battery. They are not intended for any use other than as a trickle charger. Igt sounds like you are getting a top charge. I would bet substantially the batteries have been fully discharged. I don't have 12V specs handy, but I do have 6V specs so just double the numbers. From the Trojan web site, 50% discharge which is as low as you should go is 6.05V or for a 12V battery 12.1V. At 10% 5.75V or 11.5V for 12V your mention of 10.5V is beyond dead. Also if all you have to test with is a VOM you must disconnect the batteries from the charger and allow the battery to rest for a couple hours. Get a shunt to know what your real SOC is, those batteries are dead just like the famous parrot.
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Old 01-05-2020, 12:34 PM   #40
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The standard converter takes many hours or even days to properly fully recharge a battery. They are not intended for any use other than as a trickle charger. Igt sounds like you are getting a top charge. I would bet substantially the batteries have been fully discharged. I don't have 12V specs handy, but I do have 6V specs so just double the numbers. From the Trojan web site, 50% discharge which is as low as you should go is 6.05V or for a 12V battery 12.1V. At 10% 5.75V or 11.5V for 12V your mention of 10.5V is beyond dead. Also if all you have to test with is a VOM you must disconnect the batteries from the charger and allow the battery to rest for a couple hours. Get a shunt to know what your real SOC is, those batteries are dead just like the famous parrot.
I don't understand the comments about the "standard converter" charge rates. The lowest Wfco set up is a 30 Amp 12v DC 3 stage charger. I don't think it would take "days" to recharge even 2 "fully discharged" batteries.
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