This may help...
When dry camping, your RV uses 12vdc to power things. Many of those things run even when you think everything is turned off. These are called parasites or vampires. You’ll also hear the term parasitic draw quite a bit. There are dozens of threads already here discussing this whole situation in great detail. If you want to really fill in your knowledge about the issue, find and read some of them. It will be worth the time and effort.
Here’s a basic list of items to deal with or at least be aware of:
Propane detector: always on. It’s hard wired into the RV so disconnecting it is the only solution. That’s a personal choice. You may also have a hardwired CO or smoke detector system.
Refrigerator: The control board draws a bit of 12vdc 24/7 when on gas. Nothing can be done if you want to run the fridge.
Refrigerator: If your fridge is in a slide, there is likely a vent fan controlled by a thermistor on the backside of the unit. It runs whenever it’s too warm in the venting area. Not much can be done with this, either.
Refrigerator: The climate control heater may be turned on. This kills your battery fast! It is a heater strip that warms the edges of the fridge where the door gasket contacts to keep condensate from forming. If you're boondocking, turn it off as it will run down even the most hardy battery setup. The switch on many of them is located in the top of the frame of the freezer door. It’s hard to see if you don’t know what to look for. The switch may be elsewhere in newer units so consult your manual to find it. Here’s where it traditionally has been located.
AM/FM/CD entertainment center: draws a small amount 24/7 even if off. If left on, even more. The only way to truly disconnect it is to pull it from the wall and remove the fuses. Or install a kill switch next to the unit.
Master control panel: It’s back lit 24/7 plus any switches that are on have an indicator light. Again, there‘s not much to be done here. Newer ones may be even more complex such as LCD displays, etc.
TV antenna amp: This constantly draws current when on. It must be turned on to watch over-the-air television, but shut it off when done.
Built-in or plug-in USB power outlets: These draw current constantly and not just when you plug in your phone. If you have built-ins, you could install an on/off switch to completely shut them off when not in use. If you are using the plug-ins, pull them when not actually charging something.
Remote systems: The receiver is on even when not in use. Probably doesn’t draw much by itself, but coupled with other vampires, it does add up. Again, not much can be done to change this.
If you have not converted to LED lighting, and you chose to leave a light on as a night light, this pulls more current than you think. Use a battery operated puck light or similar to avoid using the RV’s battery.
There’s plenty that can be done to operate your RV in an electrically conservative manner. First, understand that there are very few 110-120 vac items in the unit. The air conditioner, microwave, television, and convertor are about it. EVERYTHING else is 12vdc and runs off the battery, even the fridge which uses 12vdc to operate the control board when running on propane. So when dry camping (boondocking) everything you use in the RV is dependent on the battery. The first and most critical point to RVing without hookups is to understand this and accept that you need to learn how to live with it. This means that you have to become knowledgeable about all of this.
Second, don’t use what you don’t need and turn off what you do use when you’re done with it.
Third, convert your lighting to LED. It uses an eighth or less of the power that incandescent lighting does. Most Keystones (or any other brand of towable) can be done for about $100 or so. There are plenty of threads on doing this so it won’t be discussed further here. It is the most effective way to greatly extend battery charge life that you can possibly do, except maybe for turning off the refrigerator's climate control heater.
Fourth, make sure your battery (or batteries) is fully functional. Have it tested at least once a season. Keep some distilled water with you and check the water level often. Those plates must be covered for the battery to perform properly. If you run dual batteries, remember that if one starts to fail, it will pull the other down, too. If you have dual batteries, you should have a shut-off switch that allow yous to run one battery or the other or both or full off. If one battery starts to fail and the other is still good, shut off the bad one to prevent damage to the good one.
Fifth, install or use a battery monitor of some kind. Even just a voltmeter will tell you quite a bit about battery performance.
Even when operating on full hookups, the 12vdc system is still predominate in your RV. Both the convertor and at least one battery need to connected and operating properly. Disconnecting the battery in this situation is an invitation to an overloaded convertor. Don't do it.