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Old 01-20-2018, 06:40 AM   #10
JRTJH
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
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Steve,

I agree with you about nail guns and steel. From what I've experienced, the nail gun "dimples the steel" inward which creates a lip sealing the nail to the steel hole. Pulling it out deforms the steel and, from what happens with me, often snaps off the head or breaks the shank. What I've found most effective, but definitely much more time consuming, is to either grind the head off or cut the shank with a hacksaw/grinder wheel. Then, once the area is clean and the coroplast is down, use a center punch and drive the nail on through. That leaves a cleaner hole and gets rid of the "dissimilar metal" issue which can cause rust/corrosion in the future.

While this is more time consuming and harder to do, it works for me. Honestly, I don't think any of it is really "rocket science" and probably won't make a lot of difference either way (using a crowbar or a grinder) for me, I just don't like extra "stuff" stuck in the frame and I don't like the crushed coroplast from using a pry bar against it. That's just my preference, the coroplast probably isn't hurt or non-functional, it just doesn't look nice when the job is finished.
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