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Old 02-21-2019, 11:37 PM   #12
rhagfo
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 4,224
Quote:
Originally Posted by compeakw View Post
I have boondocked in my trailer here in upstate NY until the end of October, first week of November, where we regularly get overnight temps in the low twenties the past three years. I sealed all the larger gaps along the edges of the chloroplast with caulk and taped the entire perimeter with foil tape, leaving about a four inch gap in the back where it fit tight so that if I did have a leak in the underbelly it would have a place to drain and I'd be aware of it. (I had a shower drain leak on my maiden outing and only discovered it when I tilted the trailer to hitch up and water poured out the back.) I have thought about dropping the chloroplast and adding a layer of Reflectix and reinstalling the chloroplast, but I haven't done it yet.

Another thing I did that made a big difference in comfort is insulate the top and living space side of the pass through storage with rigid styrofoam glued and strapped in place. The mattress stays much warmer now.
Well we full time along the Oregon Coast in winter, see temps below freezing down to mid 20's. Our 2005 Copper Canyon is maybe rated a a three season 5er at best, the underbelly was open. I sealed with coroplast and Reflectix, and floors are noticeably warmer. We also heat with the Cheap Heat system, at 5,000 watts no issue that cold, when on a 30 amp service and 1,800 watts, need to use gas to change temp up, but 1,800 watts will hold to the mid 30's, in a 32' 5er.

I would not place any fiber insulation in the underbelly as all will absorb water, Rockwool included!
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