[JRTJH]

Lynette,

The LED vs incandescent "blinking issue" is a truck related feedback problem. It doesn't affect the trailer. The tow vehicle doesn't "care" about feedback from the 7 pin connector, so the trailer lights can be LED or incandescent and neither has any influence on the "blinking rate" of the tow vehicle.

That said, on my Cougar, the swap was a direct "one for one" with the exception of needing 6 screws to install each of the new lights. The old lights were attached with 4 screws. I bought a pound of 1" and a pound of 1.5" number 2 Roberts screws about 10 years ago. I'm still using screws from that purchase as replacements when I need a new one. I just stick the pointed end in a Styrofoam block and spray paint the heads to match what I need.

As for the license plate light, if your trailer was "properly equipped from Keystone" there should be a clear plastic lens on the bottom of one of the existing tail lights. That serves as "license plate illumination". That feature isn't present on the LED replacements. When you buy the Bargman #84's, you'll see a "spiderweb of wires" on the back, all connected with three wires, (Brake, Tail and Ground) which are connected to the existing three wires on the trailer. Once you remove the existing tail/brake light, you'll see the three wires. It's just a matter of making sure the brake wire is connected to the brightest circuit wire on the new LED light and the tail light wire is connected to the "dimmest" circuit on the new light. That way, you have "tail lights" and "WHOA THOSE ARE BRIGHT" when you step on the brakes. If you connect them the opposite way, you'll have "very bright tail lights" and "not a significant change in light brightness" when you step on the brakes.

I'd say that the changeout is an easy mod for almost anyone to do. The hardest part is scraping off the old sealant and applying new butyl tape behind the new lights, cleaning the butyl that exudes when the lights are tightened to the trailer skin and then sealing around the lights with SikaFlex or DICOR non-self leveling sealant after the butyl stops "squishing out". It took mine about a week to finally stop "squishing".