[JRTJH]

Just an opinion, I can't find any "engineering drawings" to support my opinon.

Trailer balls are not round. Trailer couplers are not round. Pawls that grip the bottom of a trailer ball (to lock it in the coupler) are not round.

In a "round world" any position on the pawl, coupler or ball would cause an "immediate release".

In "the real world" trailer balls are elongated, sit on a shank and the pawls that lock them into the coupler grip "under the ball". Typically, trailer hitches sit at a 5-10 degree angle and are "levered up" by weight distribution bars. This causes the trailer ball to sit "angled in the coupler". This angle pushes the front edge of the ball shank against the lip of the coupler forcing the top of the ball against the back of the coupler. Now, engage the pawls under the ball, more on the "side of the ball" rather than "underneath the ball" and the "not on the round part" causes the shank of the trailer ball to bind against the coupler lip while pushing the top of the ball against the back of the coupler cavity..... I also find that if I pull up on the pawl lever while raising the hitch, there's a "sweet spot" where the pawls will release as the ball passes through that "unloaded spot". If I wait too long, it binds again. It's the same with locking the ball in the coupler. It's easier to push down on the lever while the coupler is being lowered onto the ball, once it's all the way down, it's hard to engage the pawl.

WHEW!!! All of that to say, try repositioning your hitch to a more vertical position so it sits "straighter" in the coupler and you may find the pawl will release easier.

Grease never hurt any metal to metal "grinding". I'd ignore CW and put a "dab of axle grease" on the top of the ball and "smear a finger full" on the pawls inside the coupler....

As I said at the start, just my opinion, I have never seen any "engineering drawings" to substantiate this (but again, I've never seen any to refute it either)