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ddibon · 01-14-2019, 11:37 PM

Understand Ohm's Law. For an RV it boils down to anything demanding high amps against a "relative" low voltage supply will yield heat...often, lots of it.

The motors to your slides are protected by what is listed as an "automatic, resetting fuse". It's a thermal fuse, and you locate it within three feet of the positive wiring of the motor in question. If it's getting hot and gripping you know your problem...the battery is unable to deliver sufficient operating amps. The onboard battery charger from shore power is 2 amps, and makes no difference plugged in or not.

A single, deep cycle 100 amp hour battery will not supply sufficient " cranking amps" to operate your slides. Eventually the thermal fuse will fail, and the heat will transfer to the motor, your battery and all connecting wires. You can get crisping of these wires way into the walls of your RV.

RVs often have poor grounds. This is dangerous as it's essentially a closed ground loop. The mounting screws themselves represent most of the grounds present on your RV. It's well worth the time securing several sites of solid, direct grounds to your battery system.

When you slide motor gets hot the wires inside will "de solder" and fall.off, or they can crisp and simply break. This is good for otherwise the metal fuses.

It should be criminal negligence to sell any Rv with dc motors with a dc.battery incapable of operating the slides, but it is not. Likewise, good luck getting warranty to be honored.

All the hydraulic.pumps will be Lippert ones with the brand name stripped off of them. When you call them you'll be able to find a Lippert tech who will walk you threw what is happening. But they won't be happy, so be nice and adoptable. You find you won't get warranty credit without sending in the entire contraption. They won't tell you it is not possible to ship a compressor with open fluid in the mail. Not doing so makes it where your warranty is not activated. Better get a seasoned dealer or tech at bat for you on the phone. You'll need it.

Easiest solution is to immediately upgrade your battery system to sufficient design to meet pulsed 60 to 80 amp draws for ten minutes. Short of that you'll have the same issue over and over.

01-14-2019, 11:37 PM	#7
ddibon Junior Member Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Austin TX Posts: 12	Slides not working. Understand Ohm's Law. For an RV it boils down to anything demanding high amps against a "relative" low voltage supply will yield heat...often, lots of it. The motors to your slides are protected by what is listed as an "automatic, resetting fuse". It's a thermal fuse, and you locate it within three feet of the positive wiring of the motor in question. If it's getting hot and gripping you know your problem...the battery is unable to deliver sufficient operating amps. The onboard battery charger from shore power is 2 amps, and makes no difference plugged in or not. A single, deep cycle 100 amp hour battery will not supply sufficient " cranking amps" to operate your slides. Eventually the thermal fuse will fail, and the heat will transfer to the motor, your battery and all connecting wires. You can get crisping of these wires way into the walls of your RV. RVs often have poor grounds. This is dangerous as it's essentially a closed ground loop. The mounting screws themselves represent most of the grounds present on your RV. It's well worth the time securing several sites of solid, direct grounds to your battery system. When you slide motor gets hot the wires inside will "de solder" and fall.off, or they can crisp and simply break. This is good for otherwise the metal fuses. It should be criminal negligence to sell any Rv with dc motors with a dc.battery incapable of operating the slides, but it is not. Likewise, good luck getting warranty to be honored. All the hydraulic.pumps will be Lippert ones with the brand name stripped off of them. When you call them you'll be able to find a Lippert tech who will walk you threw what is happening. But they won't be happy, so be nice and adoptable. You find you won't get warranty credit without sending in the entire contraption. They won't tell you it is not possible to ship a compressor with open fluid in the mail. Not doing so makes it where your warranty is not activated. Better get a seasoned dealer or tech at bat for you on the phone. You'll need it. Easiest solution is to immediately upgrade your battery system to sufficient design to meet pulsed 60 to 80 amp draws for ten minutes. Short of that you'll have the same issue over and over.