Quote:
Originally Posted by sonofcy
Not sure what you are talking about, the eternabond 'patch' is simply applied over the original eternabond.
I am not arguing that it is a bitch to remove, but where I have used it is not somewhere I can imagine needing to do any 'normal' maintenance. The joint between roof and front/rear caps (where most leaks happen) and down both sides. If I had to replace the roof material I would just cut it at the edges including the eternabond and after installing the new roof TPO lay down new eternabond overlapping the new TPO and the old eternabond. I am 100% sealed now and no twice a year roof maintenance other than a wash.
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Go for it if that's what you want to do!
The OP asked; "Is there any reason I can't use Eternabond instead of Dicor for the areas that are going horizontal (where roof meets metal going down the front)? I replied; "The problem will be when you lay the eternabond OVER the roof material AND the molding - no going back then if you have to do anything with the roofing material, molding OR metal; they pretty much became one without some "tap 'dancin" and extra work". That's just plain fact.
The OP, in my mind, asked about using eternabond (4") to cover the transition (molding) strip between the metal front, transition molding and the roof material. That IS a place where normal maintenance takes place, and, in the event of a failure in the molding/transition strip it will be FAR more than cutting an X in the eternabond and slapping another patch over it.
The OP has no experience in this and needs/wants to know what the expected outcome is/would be in various scenarios. Dicor is the chosen product for his situation unless he knows the ramifications of using other "more permanent" methods.