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Old 11-18-2018, 09:49 AM   #20
WJQ
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Heber City
Posts: 98
You have been given a bunch of good advice above including xrated and FlyingAroundRV. Here are a couple of thoughts.
1. If you are leaking around the valve and used a Teflon tape for the sealant, that is not always sufficient. I have sometimes found that pipe threads need a paste sealant to make up for the micro defects in a threaded interface.
2. Regarding a pressure tank, you are correct. If installed correctly, a pressure simply keeps your pump from cycling during small water use cycles and when you are NOT on city water. To explain how this works, a pressure tank has two compartments separated by a flexible bladder. The tank also has a pressure setting valve (typically a Schrader valve like on an inner tube) that sets the operating pressure. A good pressure would be 40 psi. The other side - the wet side connects to your water supply. If the wet side volume is one gallon, you can use nearly one gallon of water before your pump will cycle. Then, the pump will run until you close the faucet you are using and until the wet side of the pressure tank fills to the setpoint pressure. This process is how the plumbing system for houses that use well water versus a city main supply.

Thus, a pressure tank for you when connected to the city water is irrelevant and will not help anything.

So, follow the advice of others and make sure you are not leaking around the threads and, if so, reinstall the valve using a good pipe sealant from Home Depot or Lowes.
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