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Old 07-19-2018, 09:42 AM   #24
Randyf7f
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 5
Had the same issue with our '07 Raptor - leaking black tank valve. It was never fun taking off the sewer cap. I started by cutting out a "U" in the underbelly with a drywall knife to gain access (so I could simply fold it closed and secure it when done). To get the right location for the cut-out, I dropped the liner an inch or so on the outside edges to measure to the valve then, from underneath, felt around for a crossmember so as to cut the 'door' where it would be easy to fold closed and secure to the crossmember. While it was very tight, I was able to use wedges here and there between the black tank and the existing structure/plumbing in order to seperate and hold the flanges apart, giving just enough room to get the valve out. Since the seals sit in a recess in both the valve and the flanges, you need some seperation - particularly when installing. It was a bit more trouble sliding the new valve in without dislodging the seals (and I had to drive the wedges tighter), but after a couple of tries putting the seals in first, then the valve - then vice-versa (and I can't recall which ended up working), all ended up in place. I did use some silicone grease to help hold the seals in place. It is nice to now remove the sewer cap with confidence!

One other note: When sourcing a new valve, I wanted only the valve - not the valve with cable (as our cable was fine), I was told by the mfg. that I must order the valve with the cable, as there was no way to attach the existing cable to a "T" pull valve. Figuring there must be a simple way to mate the two, I picked up the (less expensive) "T" valve from the local RV shop, unscrewed the T handle, and the cable from the existing valve attached perfectly.
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