2012 F250 Super Duty 5th Mods & Upgrades

[SteveC7010]

We picked up our new tow vehicle last week. The Dodge Dually was rapidly becoming a bottomless money pit with stuff breaking faster than we could afford to fix them. The new one is a 2012 Ford F250 Super Duty XLT SuperCab with the 6.7 diesel. We picked this one because of installed options and payload/towing capacity.
http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_56384_0_9ba702442629eb5ef9ff553f131689bf.jpg

The first upgrade is the addition of rails for the fifth wheel hitch. I picked a Reese mounting system that requires no drilling of the frame. It was a bit more pricey, but the savings in labor time (or cost if I subbed it out) are tremendous.

Here are the new rails and hardware:
http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_56384_1_397ea6a1334b1b335484cef26861c246.jpg

Here is the driver's side frame to rail bracket and hardware:
http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_56384_2_2960f0b478f6808ac5ffa77ee3a626ab.jpg

Here's the bracket on the frame ready for me to drill the holes through the floor of the truck bed:
http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_56384_3_bed6afe681a22b79e49115c9b75e86cd.jpg

More in next post......

[SteveC7010]

Here's a closer view of one end of the frame bracket so you can see the relationship between the bracket and the bed of the truck.
http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_56389_0_289de4c3ca29b2156712f0ef0367885f.jpg

Now we measure and drill for the rails in 10 places:
http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_56389_1_21e2e39b46cf245de321e8443a971d49.jpg

The whole plan for installing the rails and brackets is to assemble everything loosely as the holes are drilled so that nothing gets out of alignment. Once all the hardware is in place, we slowly begin to tighten up the bolts a little bit at a time in a systematic pattern. The end result is that everything is pulled into proper place without any distortion, gaps, or undue stress on the metal.

And the finished product with all hardware tightened up. (The fifth wheel platform is not in the pic as it was a lot easier to lift and fit things without the extra bulk and weight.)
http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_56389_2_78512956f504deb6ca2bb2da62b04b06.jpg

Some comments for those interested in doing this yourself:

First, make sure you have all the tools, etc. on hand before starting. I forgot a couple of things and had to make several trips to get them. That meant I had to set all the tools, etc. aside and drive the truck out of the garage to the storage unit and back. I also did not have the 9/16" drill bit needed so I was stuck with enlarging 3/8" holes with a tapered grinding wheel. That really slowed me down and I should have known better.

One other tool I did not have that I found myself wishing I had for this job is a round tapered alignment bar similar to what steel workers use only smaller. It would have made assembling and aligning the rails much easier.

Second, I have a Makita impact wrench with long extension and impact sockets. It made the gradual, systematic tightening of all the bolts much easier and faster. It also made it super easy to really tighten down everything. If I had to do that with a hand wrench or rachet, I don't know if I would had the strength to complete things given the contorted reaches to some of the bolt heads. If you can get your hands on one, you won't regret it.

Reese gives you a little spacer for each rail bolt. The spacer fits in the grooves of the truck bed floor and allows full tightness of each bolt from the bracket up to the rail. The spacers need to be placed fairly exactly or they'll prevent full tightening and deform the sheet metal. I got out a roll of masking tape and made little handles for each spacer so that I could move them around as needed during the tightening process. It worked really well.

It's late fall and the outside temps are in the mid-30's during the day here. While I don't have a heated garage of my own, I can use one of the bays at my volunteer ambulance service. This is definitely a project that you want to do out of the weather. It took me about 4.5 hours to complete the job so having a place where you can comfortably work matters.

For the average shade tree mechanic, this isn't a particularly challenging project, but with the need to lay on your back on the floor working with your arms extended upwards for periods of time can be exhausting, especially for someone over 60. I rate the difficulty as a 6 out of 10 for myself.

There's lots more to come and I'll add to this thread as I go along. Near future projects for the truck are:
* Remove factory AM/FM/CD and replace with aftermarket HD radio and then move the GPS and satellite radio receiver off the top of the dashboard.
http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_56389_3_21c7542c8cfd55da8c2e3dab3620e13d.jpg
* My UHF GMRS two-way radio needs to be installed.
* Emergency lighting for EMS response needs to be installed.
* DW is getting me a new cross bed tool box for Christmas. It's the low profile kind that won't interfere with the fifth wheel trailer in tight turns. That will be a bolt-in item so it is on the "to do" list.

More in next post...

[Rick1300]

He££ yeah!!!! That's the truck I plan on getting next fall! Nice choice!

[SteveC7010]

As an EMT, I respond for ambulance calls quite a bit. The squad authorizes us to have two-way mobile radios so I have a 25 watt VHF radio to be installed in the truck. This one gets used pretty regularly so it has to be well positioned so I can read the display and reach the controls under any conditions.

This truck has the full center console with four front cup holders. They are removable and there is a lot of space under them and in the bottom of the main storage area.
http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_56393_0_f38f08e2eb6b1399a88c4efe94207c99.jpg

I removed the front pair of cupholders and mounted the remote head for the radio to the other pair.
http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_56393_1_420dbb2ccf4f0bf4632b54075f61d931.jpg

I still have to install the rest of the radio and run the cabling for it, but I'll do that when I do some other electrical work. I'm still trying to figure out a good place to hang the microphone on the dashboard.

When time and money permit, I am going to add a remote camera on the back of the truck and possibly a second one high on the back of the cab.

[SteveC7010]

And just for completeness, here's a rear view of the truck:
http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_56395_0_3f84d3039e9361d2e167a2606066f5d4.jpg

[Festus2]

Steve -

Nice. VERY nice! :thumbsup:

(Green with envy)

[f6bits]

That's a beautiful truck! I didn't realize that it was normal for fifth wheel hitches to need holes drilled in the frame. I could never bring myself to drill holes in the frame. That just doesn't seem like a good idea.

That being a super cab, does it have the rear doors that open backwards? I've read random posts complaining about squeaking. In twenty or so years, that's the type of setup I'd like for retirement travel.

[Festus2]

That's a beautiful truck! I didn't realize that it was normal for fifth wheel hitches to need holes drilled in the frame. I could never bring myself to drill holes in the frame. That just doesn't seem like a good idea.

Scott -
Having the hitch bolted to the frame is absolutely necessary to ensure that the hitch is safely and securely attached to the truck. If the hitch was only attached to the thin metal of the truck bed, it could quite easily come away from the truck when towing. It would be comparable to having your TT's hitch bolted to your bumper rather than to the frame of the TV. Not a good situation.

[f6bits]

I know the hitch needs to be bolted to the frame, but the idea of drilling holes into a truck frame makes me think you're sacrificing the integrity of the frame. Using existing holes and bolt mounts sounds like a much better idea.

[SteveC7010]

That's a beautiful truck! I didn't realize that it was normal for fifth wheel hitches to need holes drilled in the frame. I could never bring myself to drill holes in the frame. That just doesn't seem like a good idea.

As Festus said, the reasons for drilling the frame are obvious, but it's also a matter of cost. Reese (and others) can produce a generic rail kit that costs significantly less than a vehicle specific (no drill) one. I chose the more expensive kit that I could install myself. The hitch shop wanted $250 to install a $110 generic kit. This one cost me $255 delivered. I bought it on Ebay and it was delivered 26 hours later.

That being a super cab, does it have the rear doors that open backwards? I've read random posts complaining about squeaking. In twenty or so years, that's the type of setup I'd like for retirement travel.

Yup, the rear doors are "suicide doors." It's standard on cab and a half trucks. Full crew cabs have all four doors opening the same way. I've had trucks with that since 1997 so I don't even notice it. Lubrication stops the squeaking if it occurs.

I am glad to be back to a SRW, short bed truck. It maneuvers better, parks easier, rides better, and is a whole bunch quieter than the Dodge.

[jsmith948]

Hello Steve,

Good looking TV - wish you the best of luck with it. We really love our Ford.
IMHO, the new 6.7 engine is awesome.
A note regarding drilling the frame - I was told by a Ford rep that drilling the frame could void the warranty. Don't know if that was a ploy to convince me that I should let Ford install the hitch. We also went with the Reese system and installed it ourselves.
Had to return the first set of frame plates because they did not allow for the DEF tank (parts guy read his book wrong), but with the correct plates everything bolted right up. Hey, if an old guy like me can do it......;)

Jack

[Brantlaker]

I am surprised you did not get the 5th wheel prep Package with the new truck that's what I did. Reese makes a adapter plate that fits most of their hitches I bought the one that Ford uses for $700 less than Ford wanted from the factory.

[SteveC7010]

I am surprised you did not get the 5th wheel prep Package with the new truck that's what I did. Reese makes a adapter plate that fits most of their hitches I bought the one that Ford uses for $700 less than Ford wanted from the factory.

If we had ordered the truck, that was on my list of "must haves". But, we took advantage of end of model year discounts to buy a new 2012 and had the dealer find us one that matched as many of our requirements as possible. As it was, this truck was found on a dealer's lot in Buffalo. I am happy with it all around.

The $255 for the rail and custom fit bracket kit was a great bargain too as it normally retails for around $325 or so.

[720Deere]

You will love the truck. They are quite the towing beast. My only complaint is fuel mileage. My 2006 got around 13 mpg towing our old Rockwood fifth wheel and the 2011 would only do around 11 with the same rig. Highway towing with the Fuzion 315 results in 8.5 to 9 mpg. The truck does great empty (17 mpg average) but it sure loves the fuel when it tows. I will say that the benefit of all that fuel being burned is 100% overdrive normal highway towing with no shifting and that is with a high profile 15,000 lb trailer in tow. Mountain passes require 4th gear and result in 60-65 mph at the peak. These trucks have come a long way!

[SteveC7010]

You will love the truck. They are quite the towing beast. My only complaint is fuel mileage. My 2006 got around 13 mpg towing our old Rockwood fifth wheel and the 2011 would only do around 11 with the same rig. Highway towing with the Fuzion 315 results in 8.5 to 9 mpg. The truck does great empty (17 mpg average) but it sure loves the fuel when it tows. I will say that the benefit of all that fuel being burned is 100% overdrive normal highway towing with no shifting and that is with a high profile 15,000 lb trailer in tow. Mountain passes require 4th gear and result in 60-65 mph at the peak. These trucks have come a long way!

Was that with the 6.7L or an older engine? 6 speed auto transmission? I ask because I am already seeing 18.5 MPG on long trips with steady speeds maintained. Around town, the mileage drops off fast which I suspect has to do with stop/start acceleration more than anything.

I won't be able to check out the towing capacity until spring as we put the Cougar in storage for the winter. But the first trip will be a 110 mile jaunt through the Adirondacks including the hill out of Blue Mountain Lake so we'll know for sure how it does then.

This is going to be fun.

[SteveC7010]

A quick update on upfitting the truck. Today I gathered up enough info to rip into the dashboard without breaking anything. The goal was to pull the AM/FM/CD unit to verify the type of harness connection plugs so that I could order the right adapter for the JVC HD radio that I have. I also wanted to move some of the excess wiring out of sight and to gain a better understanding of how the dash is laid out and assembled.

Once you learn the trick, it's very easy to open up the entire center section of the dash board which exposes the radio, two A/C vents, and all of the switches and such that are located there.

The radio is held in with four screws on the front panel and then just pulls right out. Here's a view of the backside of the radio while it is hanging down from its normal position:
http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_56479_0_69574b888dcdbeef0f240f750e457518.jpg

I pulled the plugs out of the back of the radio to snap a quick pic of them so I can order the correct harness adapter:
http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_56479_1_8d52b32abdb63424c48466db6f4b73c9.jpg

It is all reassembled for the moment. I have a double din mounting cage, wiring harness adapter, and antenna adapter on order but with the upcoming holiday and a 3 day trip out of town in the works for this week, I doubt I'll get any more done on the radio until next weekend at the earliest.

I did manage to move all the wiring for the satellite radio head and the GPS into the dash board and out of sight. Ford provides a little hatch in the front center of the top of the dashboard. On some models, there would be a headlight dimming sensor there but it's just a blank cover about 1" square. It pops out easily and all the wiring is 99% hidden from view now. When I get all the radio supplies in, they will both be mounted more permanently with no exposed wiring. And they'll be down below my line of vision out the front window. Pics and details when I get going on that.

I am stumped on an electrical issue at the moment so any advice or information would be greatly appreciated. Here's the situation: The truck came with four 12vdc outlets; all cigarette lighter style and all are always hot. None of them are ignition/accessory controlled. I'd like to move at least one or two of them to ignition/accessory control. The truck is also equipped with the upfitter switches. These are four accessory switches that can be used as needed for things like spotlights, emergency lighting, etc. However, all four of them are ignition/accessory controlled which means I can't leave a switch on and emergency lights running if I pull the key. So I'd like to move a couple of them over to always hot. All of my emergency lighting is LED and can be left running for hours without running down a battery.

I'll probably work on getting the two way radios installed and working early this week. The GMRS radio may be of some interest to folks here since it can also be used to communicate with those bubble-pack FRS (Family Radio Service) walkie-talkies that every one favors these day.

[720Deere]

6.7L diesel, 6R140 6 speed auto trans, 3.55 gears and 275/65/20 tires. Crew cab, long bed F350 SRW. I see between 18 and 20 empty. I average 17 in the Summer and 15.5 in the Winter. With a 6' x 12' utility trailer hauling a 900 lb golf cart mileage drops to 14-14.5 mpg. The truck pulls like a freight train, but it likes it's fuel when under a load.

The 2006 was a 6.0 with 3.73 gears and the 5R110 auto trans. Everything else about the two trucks was equal. The 6.0 would get 22 mpg on the highway, 17 around town and 13 towing an 8500 lb fifth wheel trailer at any speed I desired. For what it's worth, I always tend to get a little better fuel mileage than average in every vehicle I have ever driven. This 6.7 baffles me and I have even considered tuning it to see if it does any better.

[Randy_K]

A lot of work going into that truck. Its going to be nice when done. For me it seems like a bit too much work :)

Personally for me i would pick up one nice head unit to clean up the dash. There are several head units that have, AM / FM / CD / satellite radio /GPS / DVD & back up camera in one unit.

Perhaps i'm just lazy :yawn:

Randy

[sagebel]

Congrats on the new truck. I just went over 26K on my truck and the mileage has gotten noticeably better in the last 1500 miles.

One recommendation I have is to get air bags for the rear. These newer trucks squat much easier due to the longer leaf springs.

[SteveC7010]

One recommendation I have is to get air bags for the rear. These newer trucks squat much easier due to the longer leaf springs.

Got the specs and install sheets for both the Air Lifts and the Firestones in my book already. They'll have to wait until after Christmas now but I will have them installed before mid-April.

I'm keeping my ear to the ground over in the Ford Truck Enthusiasts forum for info on air bags among other things.

[audio1der]

I am stumped on an electrical issue at the moment so any advice or information would be greatly appreciated. Here's the situation: The truck came with four 12vdc outlets; all cigarette lighter style and all are always hot. None of them are ignition/accessory controlled. I'd like to move at least one or two of them to ignition/accessory control. The truck is also equipped with the upfitter switches. These are four accessory switches that can be used as needed for things like spotlights, emergency lighting, etc. However, all four of them are ignition/accessory controlled which means I can't leave a switch on and emergency lights running if I pull the key. So I'd like to move a couple of them over to always hot. All of my emergency lighting is LED and can be left running for hours without running down a battery.

I'll probably work on getting the two way radios installed and working early this week. The GMRS radio may be of some interest to folks here since it can also be used to communicate with those bubble-pack FRS (Family Radio Service) walkie-talkies that every one favors these day.

For the switched outlets which you want to convert to always hot, use a dual-output Bosch relay. Use the factory switched wire and ground for turn-on and ground; all you need is a constant +12V wire to the relay, and then wire the dual outputs of the relay in place of their existing switched leads, and you're set.
I love these relays; because they're rated for 30A and have 2 output posts it cuts down on wire and provides lots of flexibility.
http://www.efihardware.com/products/381/relay-12v-30A-dual-output-fits-H-RELB
Hope this helps! Love the build log.

[SteveC7010]

For the switched outlets which you want to convert to always hot, use a dual-output Bosch relay. Use the factory switched wire and ground for turn-on and ground; all you need is a constant +12V wire to the relay, and then wire the dual outputs of the relay in place of their existing switched leads, and you're set.
I love these relays; because they're rated for 30A and have 2 output posts it cuts down on wire and provides lots of flexibility.
http://www.efihardware.com/products/381/relay-12v-30A-dual-output-fits-H-RELB
Hope this helps! Love the build log.

That's a great solution and thanks.

I found one that is a bit simpler on one of the Ford forums. The relays for the upfitter switches are run/accessory controlled. The power points are always hot. There is a power point right next to the upfitter switches. By simply switching the hot leads from one to the other and putting a smaller fuse in the power point fuse socket, all four upfitter switches can now be used when the key is not in the vehicle. The power point becomes run/accessory controlled. Total investment is a few inches of wire and some butt splices.

[ohiocougar]

Very Nice Truck!!!"bouncey:

[SteveC7010]

All the parts for installing my JVC HD radio arrived last week and I was able to build most of the installation on the bench. The Ford factory radio (see earlier pics above) is a double DIN sized unit while the JVC is a single DIN. I used to the second DIN area to fabricate and install a plain ABS face backed by a pair of steel angle brackets for strength. I bought a small aftermarket mount for the Garmin GPS and modified the standard mount for the SkyFi II XM control head.

Earlier in this thread, someone wondered why I didn't just buy a new all-in-one unit. Well, the answer is pretty simple; I already have all the major items here. My only expense for this install was the DIN adapter, Ford wiring adapter, GPS mount, and antenna adapter. Total cost was about $35. It would have been a lot more expensive to purchase a new unit plus I'd have to drop the headliner to install a GPS/satellite antenna on the roof. The GPS/satellite antenna alone would have cost more than all the stuff I needed to do this conversion.

When installed, nothing on the dashboard is blocked by anything, and it is all easily reached from either seat. The Garmin and the XM are both on swiveling ball mounts. This pic is shot from approximately driver's eye level:
http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_57711_0_d727d1b5323d02b186de84b776f021cb.jpg

[SteveC7010]

This particular Super Duty came with four 12vdc power outlets; one in the dash by the driver's right knee, one in the dash by the passenger's left leg, one in the center console's storage compartment, and one in the backside of the console. They are all the standard cigarette lighter style and are more or less very useful.

But a lot of personal electronics are now charged via USB connections and power including our iPhones and Kindles. Blue Sea makes a great USB port that is very high quality and easy to install. I removed the regular power outlet from the small dash panel and replaced it with the Blue Sea unit. It fit perfectly and snugly in the existing panel opening with no modification except to remove a couple of very small tabs. I moved the power supply for this outlet from always hot to run/accessory so that it will be off when the truck is off. The USB unit constantly uses a bit of electricity to convert 12vdc down to 5vdc so it's a good idea to make sure the unit is not hot when the truck is shut down.
http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_58165_0_31a944ff84dc9c82d17204c8e3f1f0a7.jpg

For those that are interested, the Blue Sea part number is 1016. It can be found at marine supply stores. Online, I buy my Blue Sea items on Ebay. I found this one for about $23 including shipping which is about the best price I have ever seen on this item.

[sagebel]

Have you looked under the back seat on the driver side? My truck has a 12v plug there as well.

[SteveC7010]

Have you looked under the back seat on the driver side? My truck has a 12v plug there as well.

Nothing there but your truck is a Crew Cab so it may get an extra outlet or two.

[SteveC7010]

For those with Ford diesels, Ford now builds in the capability to add a high rpm idle to your vehicle. If your truck has the upfitter switches, it's a bit easier, but not a difficult job without them.

SEIC means Stationary Elevated Idle Control. The capability is built in to your PCM. Lots of commercial applications such as generators, compressors, PTO's, etc. for these trucks require high idle. All it takes is the addition of a resistor across two wires and a switched low amperage 12vdc source to turn the high idle on and off.

Why SEIC? Well, the short version is that it prevents all kinds of problems during extended idle periods. Ford recommends 1200 RPM as optimal. It keeps up airflow and temps for the DEF injectors on the 6.7's. And it is ideal for cooling down your rig after towing. It also prevents "wet stack" in most any diesel.

I ended up short of time to take some pictures this morning, but I did get the high idle mod done. Here is a link to an extensive thread about adding the SEIC mod to your truck which explains everything much better than I can. http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1005364-seic-high-idle-mod-pictures.html#post9494561

If you think you might want to do this mod, I have a stock of 20K resistors left over. 20K is the value that will give you a 1200 RPM high idle. Let me know via PM and I can mail you the resistor.

I also have a single page instruction sheet on the mod. Drop me a PM and I'll send you several pages of PDF info and the instruction sheet.

If you don't have the upfitter switches, let me know and I can give you the info on a convenient 5 amp run/accessory source right next to the wiring for the SEIC.

Living up here in the northeast, we tend to want to warm up our cars and trucks before driving them in cold weather. The high idle helps a diesel warm up faster and safer.

[sagebel]

I built my own and used a potentiometer so that I can adjust the idle speed. I'll see if I can find some pics of the install if you want them.

BTW, Looks like you will be getting some snow soon.

[SteveC7010]

I built my own and used a potentiometer so that I can adjust the idle speed. I'll see if I can find some pics of the install if you want them.

BTW, Looks like you will be getting some snow soon.

Over on the Ford Truck Enthusiasts forum, there's a detailed thread with lots of pics of both types, fixed resistor and potentiometer. I opted for the fixed resistor for now, but the pot is a great addition.

We got a couple of inches over night, but it turned to rain around daybreak. It's all gone now.

[Htfiremedic]

Nice work, I wish that it would work with an '03

[SteveC7010]

Nice work, I wish that it would work with an '03

There may be hope for you. Ford has long offered PTO capability on both the E and F series chassis. There may be a PTO high idle available for your '03. Our '06 E-450 ambulance has it. Check over on the FTE forum. There are lots of owners of trucks of that age that have done all kinds of neat mods and upgrades to their trucks. If there isn't built in one that you just have to hook up, I bet those guys and girls over there can point you at an easy-to-install unit of some kind.

[SteveC7010]

No tow vehicle is complete without some customized touches just for appearence's sake.
I think the tailgate of the Super Duty looks a little plain with just a Ford oval and the words SUPER DUTY
stamped in the metal.
http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_59099_0_d6aaaded119b928f90a6e4af43863f0a.jpg

I found an outfit that makes stick-on lettering that fills those stamped letters with whatever color
one might want. They offer them for the tailgate, the front grille, and the dashboard. The 4x4 emblems
on the sides of my truck are gold so I ordered letters in gold reflective for the tailgate. The reflective
aspect gives an extra bit of safety to the rear at night, too.

I took the tailgate off so I could work in a warm room and then let the whole thing dry overnight
as the letters are applied using a wet method. Here's what it looks like on the bench:
http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_59099_1_0838dfa07a245dbdd31f137ae4765629.jpg

The company I bought these from is called Stang Customs. They sell through Ebay for the most part
and their prices are darned reasonable. I got two complete sets of letters for this job for $16.47.
They were in the mailbox in just a week's time. Search for a seller named fuzedmods there.

[sagebel]

Nice work, I wish that it would work with an '03

'03 7.3 no. Ford made an auxilary idle controller (AIC) that could be used to high idle the 7.3 and maybe the 6.0 (I have only owned the 7.3 and 6.7). Most of the aftermarket custom performance chips can also have a high idle setting added to them.

'03 6.0 yes. The wiring is different but it can be done. Search one of the Ford diesel specific forums and you should find plenty of write ups.

[SD10]

Steve,
REAL nice truck! I have the same truck with the Triton V10 two years older. I'm looking at purchasing (maybe) the Cougar 330RBK. Just curious, how do my numbers compare to yours? and how does your F250 handle your 326? I think the 330 might put me up there in payload, but I'm still in the process of figuring that out :).

TRUCK: 2010 Ford F250 XLT SRW super cab SB with Triton V10 (with camper pkg)
-type E tires with single 3640 lb. load capacity
-combined cargo weight max: 2573 lbs. (sticker inside driver door)
-GVW: 6223 lbs.
-GVWR: 9400 lbs.
-FGAWR: 5200 lbs.
-RGAWR: 6100 lbs.
-Max loaded trailer weight: 14400 lbs. (according to Ford trailer towing guide)
-GCWR: 21000 lbs.

TRAILER: 2013 Cougar 330RBK
-Hitch (pin) weight: 1865 lbs.
-Dry weight: approx. 10000 lbs.
-GVW: 12265 lbs. (according to dealer documentation)

[SteveC7010]

Can tell how it tows yet. We bought it after we sent the trailer to storage for the winter.

The SD has the 10K GVWR package and is rated to tow 16K.

The 326MKS is 9920 dry, 2045 capacity and a pin weight of 1565.

[deeddy0502]

very nice truck indeed! are you going to add a tuner to that truck or just run it stock?

I have had a few ford quad cab trucks and rather than using lubricants like wd 40 or lithium spray grease i have found that good ole pledge sprayed and wiped down on all the door seals from time to time works very well too.

[Jables]

Nice truck! For those that doubt the Ford trans in these is built big enough, keep in mind that they are actually 20lbs heavier than an Allison. Lots of steel should equate to fewer broken parts.

[Bob Landry]

Nice truck. I'm loving my new F250.

[SteveC7010]

It's been a bit since I posted any additional progress on the truck, but I've got more done here and there. First, the interior. Here's what it looks like now with the satellite receiver, GPS unit, two-way VHF radio, and rear view camera system all installed in their final locations:
http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_70546_0_a22e3789734ec64bb9a7027598094ca3.jpg
Surprisingly, the VHF radio control head on top of the dash doesn't block the view at all. I had a hard time finding a place to mount the microphone so it had to go down low above the gas pedal. The GPS and SiriusXM were already highlighted in an earlier post.

I purchased the camera system from Rear View Safety, Inc. It came with everything needed for a normal install, but I ordered the license plate mounting bracket extra to be sure the camera could see the road even with the tailgate down. The 7" monitor is visible just forward of the cup holders in the center console in the pic above. It can handle two more cameras and/or a DVR signal. Here's the camera all mounted and working well:
http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_70546_1_5c7b88aac90c5f594a8594cf0d55a874.jpg

Finally, I was very disappointed with the performance of the back up lights on this truck. They use the 921 bulb, same as the lights inside our trailers, and place them in very small housings. They give very little light out the back at night. I finally found an outstanding solution which also lets me have some additional emergency response lighting to the rear as well. They are dual color LED "hideaways" which are designed to be mounted right into turn signal, back up light, or headlight housings. In normal mode, I have very bright and efficient white back up lights now. In emergency mode, they flash a wig-wag (left and right) pattern with an amber color. (Also available in red, blue, and green.) If I put the truck in reverse with the emergency lights going, the white mode over rides the flashing amber. Here's a shot of the lights that I took in a very dark driveway at night:
http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_70546_2_c9abf190b6b3ac20177604d9794f5812.jpght tp://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_70546_3_34a0fcb8fa8d62fbe5d9c86c89a36278.jpg

Even the garage behind the boat is lit up enough to be clearly visible at night. I am very pleased with this capability. Also, I tested the stock 921 bulbs against the LED units for heat issues. After 5 minutes of continuous on, the 921's had heated up the taillight housing so that it was hot to the touch. The LED's were barely warmer than room temperature. I can safely run the emergency lighting for long periods of time without heat worries because they are only on 50% of the time.

Just replacing the 921 incandescent bulbs with one of the 921 LED units that we've discussed a lot does not produce real satisfactory results. The back up light housing is so small on the Super Duty's that you can not fit in one of the taller 921 LED's so you end up with no more lumens to show for the effort. I am not saying that I would not do that if I did not need the emergency lights, but rather more to just let you know that you won't get much improvement in lighting by switching to LED 921's. They'll be a whiter white and run a lot cooler.

[Scott L]

I recommend the Firestone set-up and go with the wireless setup. It costs more but worth it, not having to run wires and air lines into the cab. Also you can stand out side the truck and get it level."bouncey:

[Bob Landry]

Steve,
Since you have had this truck apart inside and out, I'll ask... How do the front door panels come off? I found the two screws at the bottom, but the panel appears to be a very tight fit to the door frame and I wasn't sure where there might be more attachment points or hidden screws. I'm going to start doing audio upgrades starting with speakers. On my Tundra, all that was needed was the removal of the wing cover, two screws and the panel popped loose and lifted up. I just don't want to break anything.
I' not sure what I'm going to do with the radio. Overall, I'm pretty disappointed with the SYNC capabilities, but I do like the steering wheel controls and I don't want to lose that. SYNC has a lot of whistles and bells, but not that much that I actually will use. The ability to use voice commands while playing music from a thumb drive is really disheartening and it turns out that the only way to get the full range of utility is with an iphone or iPod. Wonder if that was coincidental.. LOL.

[SteveC7010]

Steve,
Since you have had this truck apart inside and out, I'll ask... How do the front door panels come off? I found the two screws at the bottom, but the panel appears to be a very tight fit to the door frame and I wasn't sure where there might be more attachment points or hidden screws. I'm going to start doing audio upgrades starting with speakers. On my Tundra, all that was needed was the removal of the wing cover, two screws and the panel popped loose and lifted up. I just don't want to break anything.
I' not sure what I'm going to do with the radio. Overall, I'm pretty disappointed with the SYNC capabilities, but I do like the steering wheel controls and I don't want to lose that. SYNC has a lot of whistles and bells, but not that much that I actually will use. The ability to use voice commands while playing music from a thumb drive is really disheartening and it turns out that the only way to get the full range of utility is with an iphone or iPod. Wonder if that was coincidental.. LOL.
Bob,
The truck that the dealer found for us didn't have the sync, but then I think that was something we told them we did not want since we had the JVC HD ready to install. It has its own aux jack for the iPhone or similar. I removed the factory aux plug and replaced it with another 12vdc outlet.

The front door panel is one of the few that I haven't pulled, yet. But, a guy just posted how to pull the back door panels on the Super Cab so I think I can tell you how to remove the front one. You've probably already figured out the first three steps, but I'll run through them quick for the next guy that wants to do this.

First, the little top cover panel pulls straight out with just a bit of prying. I got it off with my fingers real easy:
http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_74520_0_e56a9d68ac1e2d096cc653e83bc1ab3a.jpg

The the little cover just below the door handle has to come off. It's got two long tabs on the top edge and two small tabs on the bottom edge with visible slots for a screw driver or similar. Gently pry straight up in both slots.
http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_74520_1_763b7741a59bb2dd3ed6edafa7e968db.jpg

With the cover off, two screw heads are exposed. They'll need a 7mm socket to remove.
http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_74520_2_377c578c658116a3c9bea2123d17d59f.jpg

Lastly, way down at the bottom of the door panel are two more screws to be pulled:
http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_74520_3_1eb9111f0a9eca1fd1ab125a1243b003.jpg

The lower half of the rear door panels come off by lifting straight up so I would expect that the front doors are the same. You might try lifting the left or right lower edge first and see if you get fairly easy movement. If you do, see if the rest of the panel will lift as easily. I went over my door real closely and I don't find any other covers or hidden screws. When it comes off, the wiring for the power windows, power mirrors, and any other accessories will still be attached so you'll have to unplug each of them.

I think that's it. Let us know if you encounter a problem and I'll see if I run into the same issue on my door.

[Bob Landry]

Thanks,
I'll check mine out today. I didn't think to look for the cover under the door handle. On first inspection, it appears that just the lower half of the panel will come out, and I think that's all I need to get to the speakers.
I'm having a blast with this truck, fun to drive and even with the 6.2L gasser this thing is a towing beast.. I've installed a Bed Rug, Retrax cover, Westin step bars, Rostra backup camera, and I had clearance lights installed yesterday. I'm running out of money.. LOL Thanks for your help. I'll try to post pics of the truck.

I may try to plan a fall color trip to Glens Falls this fall. Maybe we can hook up in the Adirondack and have a cup of coffee and grill a steak. You need to get down to Texas, but not during the Summer.

[Bob Landry]

Duplicate Post Deleted.

[SteveC7010]

Thanks,
I'll check mine out today. I didn't think to look for the cover under the door handle. On first inspection, it appears that just the lower half of the panel will come out, and I think that's all I need to get to the speakers.
I'm having a blast with this truck, fun to drive and even with the 6.2L gasser this thing is a towing beast.. I've installed a Bed Rug, Retrax cover, Westin step bars, Rostra backup camera, and I had clearance lights installed yesterday. I'm running out of money.. LOL Thanks for your help. I'll try to post pics of the truck.

I may try to plan a fall color trip to Glens Falls this fall. Maybe we can hook up in the Adirondack and have a cup of coffee and grill a steak. You need to get down to Texas, but not during the Summer.

I'm still getting things sorted out, too. Camera, satellite radio, GPS, EMS two-way and more are mostly done. Still have to crawl under the truck and run wires and cables for all the stuff at the back end. Right now the camera cable is just laying in the bed. There's more emergency response lighting to go in when I get time. It came with running boards and I am happy with them.

We're barely an hour from Glens Falls and there's a lot of good campgrounds in the area, too. Sounds like a plan.

[Bob Landry]

I'm still getting things sorted out, too. Camera, satellite radio, GPS, EMS two-way and more are mostly done. Still have to crawl under the truck and run wires and cables for all the stuff at the back end. Right now the camera cable is just laying in the bed. There's more emergency response lighting to go in when I get time. It came with running boards and I am happy with them.

We're barely an hour from Glens Falls and there's a lot of good campgrounds in the area, too. Sounds like a plan.

I ran the cable for my camera along the frame and tie wrapped it and encased it in loom. Under the carpet on the passenger side, there's a rubber plug that will give you access over to the kick panel and the A-post. Be careful if you pull the A-post/Handle off. There's an air bag in there that you don't want to set off.

[SteveC7010]

I ran the cable for my camera along the frame and tie wrapped it and encased it in loom. Under the carpet on the passenger side, there's a rubber plug that will give you access over to the kick panel and the A-post. Be careful if you pull the A-post/Handle off. There's an air bag in there that you don't want to set off.
Mine goes under the rug in the back into the rear of the big center console. I mounted the multiplexer for the camera and the brain of the two-way radio to a piece of plywood in the base of console. Some of the wiring goes out the back of the console and the rest goes out the front under the cup holders and up into the main dashboard. When I get done there will be all kinds of electronics and such in the bottom of that console.

There's another airbag that runs above the doors on each side from from the front window to the back post. I had to be sure to run the antenna coax for the two-way between the airbag and the sheet metal of the roof.

If you decide to install anything under the hood that needs to be wired into the cab, let me know. There are 4 pre-wires already in place so you don't have to mess around with trying to feed wire through the firewall. I'll give you details on them if you need them.

Did your truck come with the Auxiliary Switch package? I have the details on that, too.

[Bob Landry]

Mine goes under the rug in the back into the rear of the big center console. I mounted the multiplexer for the camera and the brain of the two-way radio to a piece of plywood in the base of console. Some of the wiring goes out the back of the console and the rest goes out the front under the cup holders and up into the main dashboard. When I get done there will be all kinds of electronics and such in the bottom of that console.

There's another airbag that runs above the doors on each side from from the front window to the back post. I had to be sure to run the antenna coax for the two-way between the airbag and the sheet metal of the roof.

If you decide to install anything under the hood that needs to be wired into the cab, let me know. There are 4 pre-wires already in place so you don't have to mess around with trying to feed wire through the firewall. I'll give you details on them if you need them.

Did your truck come with the Auxiliary Switch package? I have the details on that, too.

The only thing left is to run power from the battery inside the cab for a radio. Mine didn't come with the auxiliary switch package. I don't have as much stuff to turn on and off as you do, and do not anticipate needing them. My fog lights and clearance lights are wired into the wiring controlled by the headlight switch. The backup camera has an on/off switch on the rear view mirror. I think that covers everything I'm going to need to do.

The wood grain and the buckets are a really nice touch on yours. Mine is the plain jane XLT interior and everything is plastic with cloth seats but I still love it..