Back-up lights

[saltytuna1]

Just took delivery on our new Raptor 310. Was wondering if anyone has used the factory rear loading lights as back-up lights? Pulled the cover off of the connection box at the fifth wheel hitch and the yellow wire (back-up light wire from truck) is there and terminated. Does anyone know if Keystone runs a wire from the rear lights to any where up front where I could connect to it?

Thanks in advance for any info.
Steve

[SteveC7010]

Just took delivery on our new Raptor 310. Was wondering if anyone has used the factory rear loading lights as back-up lights? Pulled the cover off of the connection box at the fifth wheel hitch and the yellow wire (back-up light wire from truck) is there and terminated. Does anyone know if Keystone runs a wire from the rear lights to any where up front where I could connect to it?

Thanks in advance for any info.
Steve

It's very doubtful that you will find a spare wire just laying around anywhere, let alone routed where you want it. I am afraid you'll end up running your own line back for the reverse lights.

I am contemplating doing the same thing to the Cougar. The only difficulty I see is snaking from the connection box in the fifth wheel through the floor of the bedroom and into the front landing gear compartment. It's only about 4 feet or so, and the fiberglass skin is floating and not bonded to anything so it should not be too difficult. Same issue on the back wall of the trailer and probably not much of a challenge either.

[saltytuna1]

I was really hoping that maybe they already ran the wire up front, but I'm thinking your right, they didn't. If I can't find one up front I was planning to snake a wire up to the loading light switch that's mounted on the wall between the garage and kitchen. We'll see how ambitious I am. If I do it I'll let you know what I found.

Steve

[SteveC7010]

I was really hoping that maybe they already ran the wire up front, but I'm thinking your right, they didn't. If I can't find one up front I was planning to snake a wire up to the loading light switch that's mounted on the wall between the garage and kitchen. We'll see how ambitious I am. If I do it I'll let you know what I found.

Steve

You may need to use a relay or isolation diodes to properly connect those loading lights to the reverse line. I am not sure how that is all wired back there.

I am going to add 6" oval LED fixtures for the backup lights on the Cougar as there are no loading or other white lights on the back now.

[SAABDOCTOR]

I would think you can do this with out too much of a problem. as steve suggested you will need to put isolation diodes in the + linewith the +end of the diode faceing the terminal on the light fixture. and at that point is were you would put another diode + end on the fixture the other end of thediode to the wire you run from the back up light from the 7 pin plug. that way no power feeds back into the other circut when the other one is on. power back feed can do damage to the dice control ( dashbord integrated central elctronics computor) that would ruin your day! so let me say it again. take two diodes solder the + ends together. and remove the +wire that lights the lights normaly solder the diode+ to the fixture were you just removed the wire. put that wire on one - terminal of the diode insulate it and the wire you run for back up lights gets soldered to the other - terminal of the other diode and insulate that. sounds easy right? it is good luck:banghead::banghead::dizzy:

[saltytuna1]

Steve, Barney,

Thanks for the replies. Spoke to a pretty knowledgeable tech. today and he reaffirmed that Keystone doesn't run extra wires from the front to rear. So when I get a chance I'll run an new wire from the hitch, down the frame, up the wall, through a diode, to the lights.

Thanks,
Steve

[Big Boy w/ Big Toys]

Saabdoc

Why Diodes and not a relay? If your diodes fail you, thou rare but it does happen (just happen on my HD for my LEDs), if a relay fails you just don't have lights that work as designed. The other thing with a relay you are not powering the lights thru the truck circuit, which maybe over 40 feet thru a 16 gauge wire. In total you are not over powering the wire but close. Using the truck to activate the relay pulls little power thru the truck and you can use your trailer battery to power those lights.

I have done this mod to many different trailers as described with the relay and it will be my 1st mod as soon as I get my 30 FS home. Looking at using two pairs of LEDs one set high and one set under the trailer.

A little search you may find that the wires may run underneath if lucky, if not check the rear roof vent by removing the inside trim, may find the wires running by close.

[SteveC7010]

A little search you may find that the wires may run underneath if lucky, if not check the rear roof vent by removing the inside trim, may find the wires running by close.

It is highly doubtful that Keystone ran wire for backup lights or an extra 12vdc line, especially one that could handle a bit more amperage for two pair of lights.

My preference for a mod like this is to run my own wire anyway. Then I know that the gauge is ample for the job.

BTW, I agree with your thinking on the relays. While diodes may be fine for a pair of low power LED fixtures, using relays for the loading lights just makes sense.

FWIW, this company offers some high quality diodes for automotive use in sufficient capacities that a failure would be the last of my worries on an install. http://www.roadmasterinc.com/products/accessories/electrical.html

[Big Boy w/ Big Toys]

I will have to disagree about those diodes.....being on the road for over a month now I will just say that I see way to many coaches pulling vehicles without proper lighting. Many times total failure and not road repairable by those of little experience. I had the chance to be 2nd vehicle back from one such case going thru Hells Canyon in Idaho. Dummy behind him almost clobbered him numerous times. When he pulled over I tried to help him repair his lights, I am electrical smart, but came to the conclusion of diode failure. Made a quick jumper to get at least his brake and turn signals to work on his towed truck to continue his trip into Lewiston, Id. for repair.

A relay failure, go to local parts store and get another.

As for the wiring I did not mean for a wire running all the way to the rear for powering those lights, I meant finding a good place to maybe catch an easy splice point.....soldered of course. Also use liquid tape on the splice before and aftering taping. Then you will never have to worry about that part of the wire corroding.

[SteveC7010]

As for the wiring I did not mean for a wire running all the way to the rear for powering those lights, I meant finding a good place to maybe catch an easy splice point.....soldered of course. Also use liquid tape on the splice before and aftering taping. Then you will never have to worry about that part of the wire corroding.

If you're powering lights with any significant current draw, I am very leery of using any existing lines already in the back of a trailer that are there for other purposes. The added amperage may not make a difference until everything on that circuit is turned at the same time.

Again, for something like multiple auxiliary backups lights, run new wire. It is the only prudent choice.

[rnkburg]

I would check the brake lights and turn signals if you have a "yellow" wire that is laying there loose. Usually the yellow and green are right and left turn wires in the diagrams, and on most trailers I have been around.

Just a thought though.