generators

[brent]

can anyboby tell me what size portable generator i would need to run my 50 amp fifth wheel. one 15000btu and 1 13500btu ac:)

[jq1031]

can anyboby tell me what size portable generator i would need to run my 50 amp fifth wheel. one 15000btu and 1 13500btu ac:)

My former motor home had that set up & the generator was 7500 Watts

[brent]

thank you can you tell me if the 120/240 straight plug in on the generator only puts out 120 volts to the camper using the camper cord. i have a outback sydney 5th

[Houndie Dog]

Brent,
this is the setup I use...This is only 30A because anything I have found that is 50A is very big and very heavy. I can run both A/C's on this, but you have to be aware of your power usage and keep things to a minimum.
***No I do not run the generator in the cargo bay & No, there is no fuel in the tank......I have ramps that I roll the generator in and out on. Just thought I would show you my setup, it weighs about 170lb without fuel.

http://i809.photobucket.com/albums/zz16/Grvado/IMGP0825-1.jpg
http://i809.photobucket.com/albums/zz16/Grvado/IMGP0827.jpg

[CampDestinations.com]

When hooked up at a campground, a "wired" 50-Amp service will provide about 6,000 watts of power to your camper.

[SAABDOCTOR]

THERE ARE AS MANY ANSWERS AS PEOPLE ON THE THREAD! WATTS... VOLTAGE TIMES AMPS = WATTS 120 VOLTS X 50 AMPS IS 6000 WATTS. THAT WILL BE A FAIRLY BIG UNIT AND LOUD! PLUS YOU WOULD NEED THIS MUCH IF YOU WANT TO START EVERTHING AT ONCE..(NOT) BE GOOD ABOUT WHAT YOU TURN ON ONE A/C AT A TIME CAREFULL WITH THE MICRO WAVE LEAVE THE HOT WATER OFF ELECTRIC WHEN NOT NEEDED AND YOU CAN GET BUY WITH UNDER 3000 WATTS! BEFORE YOU ALL JUMP DOWN MY THROUGHT I HAVE DONE IT I AM CAREFUL HOW I USE THE POWER. BUT MINE IS BACKUP POWER IN AN EMERGANCY. I WOULD THINK 4KW SHOULD BE FINE FOR YOU. QUICK AND EASY,:thumbsup::thumbsup: LOOK AT YOUR BREAKERS THE A/C IS ON A 30 AMP BREAKER THAT IS 3600 WATTS BUT THAT WOULD BE SURGE POWER RUNING IS ABOUT 1500 MAX SO 4 K WILL COVER YOU LOTS OF CAMPERSS USE 2 HONDA EU2000i IN PARALELL HONDA HAS A CABLE FOR THAT. THEN YOU HAVE A CHOISE. 4000 OR 2000 WATTS. PLUS THEY ARE QUIET AND VERY STINGY ON FUEL. PLUS PLUS THEY ARE LIGHT SO THE DW CAN LIFT THEM OUT OF THE STORAGE CABINET. ONLY IF YOU ASK NICELY HA HA.

[cumminsdad08]

X 2 on the honda inverters. they are very nice, we use them at work, and often take them in the larger buildings and keep them in our areial lifts while we work (i know, i know, not the smartest idea, but we get the job done). they perform flawlessly for us day after day, even when you run over them with a dually,( don't ask).

how do you like the generac? does it put out what it says it will? we tried a few of them, and they didn't run anywhere near what they said they would. the price was right for them, but just didn't hold out for what we needed. were several hundred less then the hondas.

[chain_dogg]

can anyboby tell me what size portable generator i would need to run my 50 amp fifth wheel. one 15000btu and 1 13500btu ac:)

Best Portable Generator a man could own.......

http://www.hondapowerequipment.com/products/modeldetail.aspx?page=modeldetail&section=P2GG&modelname=EU3000iS&modelid=EU3000ISAN


http://www.hayesequipment.com/images/eu3000.jpg

[Ron]

What do you all think about the Yamaha 4500ise, What I like about this unit is the remote start.



I know someone that has one and it is super quite like the Honda

[JRTJH]

The Honda 3000 generator is rated at 3000 watts surge and 2800 watts continuous. That means it will run continuously at 23.3 Amps (Half of what you need if you're wanting to run at 50 Amps). Dometic recommends a minimum of 3500 watts for one AC and 5000 watts for two. That recommendation is for either 13.5K or 15K BTU AC's. That means that the manufacturer recommends a generator rated 700 watts higher than the Honda 3000 is capable of producing continuously and 500 watts higher than it can rate for "momentary" use. What that means is that the Honda should not be used to power more than 2800 watts for greater than 20 minutes. One 13.5K BTU AC requires 13.9 Amps to run (more to start the compressor) which means that one AC requires 1668 watts to run.

While it's true that some people, under ideal conditions can use a Honda 3000 generator to power a 30 Amp RV electrical system while conserving power by not using the HWH, microwave, etc, it won't power a 50 Amp RV if you expect to use both AC's, even with conservative management. ALL the motorhome manufacturers install a minimum of 4500 watts (usually at least 5500 watts) in their motorhomes with 2 rooftop AC units. With the onboard 4500 watt generators, those motorhomes require a special circuit which alternates between front and rear AC. Both AC's don't operate at the same time.

I'd recommend you do a search on this forum for generators and read the extensive discussions regarding recommendations for which are minimally acceptable in 30 Amp RV's and in 50 Amp RV's.

As for the 4500 watt Yamaha generator, it is rated at 4000 watts (33 Amps)continuous and 4500 watts surge. It is hardly portable as it weighs 194 lbs empty, by the time you put 4.5 gallons of gas (about 30 lbs) you're going to be lifting over 200 pounds in and out of your truck. The electric start may be nice, especially when you pull your back muscles lifting that heavy thing and can't pull a starter rope...

[christopherglenn]

Actualy a 50 amp service is 50 amp 240 volt. There are 2 120 volt 50 amp legs in the same cable. That is 12,000 watts (12kw).
My trailer has a 5.5KW Onan, and it runs both AC's and the microwave at the same time.

[JRTJH]

A 5.5KW (5500 Watt) generator will do fine running two air conditioners and the microwave. The only potential problem would be if both AC's tried to start at the same time and the microwave was running. That's a very unlikely situation. As for the wattage on a 50 Amp trailer. I think you'll find that it's 2 legs of 30 amps each at 120 VAC, not 2 lines of 50 amps...

You know, it puzzles me how (or why) so many people "preach" truck limitations, expressing an 80% rule for towing, etc, stress tire inflation safety, load limits for truck and trailer, yet when it comes to generators, (something that can kill you easily if safety is ignored) many of them will load a Honda 2000 Watt generator up to the max and then ask it to power something else as well... A Honda 2000 generator is really a 1600 watt generator and when you do the wattage requirements for a 13.5 BTU AC, it ocmes out to 1668 watts required to run and even more to start. I guess it seems that when it comes to the "sacred" truck, protection and conservative operation is warranted, but when it comes to a generator, all bets are off, just plug stuff in until it pops the circuit breaker, then complain that "something" must be wrong with it because the "neighbor's" generator didn't do that..... Hmmmmm:confused:

[SteveC7010]

You know, it puzzles me how (or why) so many people "preach" truck limitations, expressing an 80% rule for towing, etc, stress tire inflation safety, load limits for truck and trailer, yet when it comes to generators, (something that can kill you easily if safety is ignored) many of them will load a Honda 2000 Watt generator up to the max and then ask it to power something else as well... A Honda 2000 generator is really a 1600 watt generator and when you do the wattage requirements for a 13.5 BTU AC, it comes out to 1668 watts required to run and even more to start. I guess it seems that when it comes to the "sacred" truck, protection and conservative operation is warranted, but when it comes to a generator, all bets are off, just plug stuff in until it pops the circuit breaker, then complain that "something" must be wrong with it because the "neighbor's" generator didn't do that..... Hmmmmm:confused:

That's one of the reasons I've never included the A/C in my generator usage for the trailers as it it way too much draw for the eu2000i. Even Mama's hair dryer and the microwave running at the same time can be problematic if both are set for full load and kick in at more or less the same time. The 1000 and 2000 series Hondas (and others) are great for keeping batteries up and running smaller 110vac appliances, but people have to understand their limitations and stay within them.

[JRTJH]

Steve, My "fear" is that people who don't really understand electricity and get complacent with its use get out in "the middle of nowhere" and plug in a small generator, overload it, and when it starts "balking" on them and won't run what they have plugged in, they start poking at things on the generator. That's the same as poking at an outlet at home, only problem is the one at home is grounded and you're somewhat protected against shock, at least if your house is wired properly. But, that "little thingie" we all ignore, the grounding lug on the generator, is the only thing that could make it "close to a household circuit" and we never run a 4 guage wire from the generator to a copper ground driven into the ground at the proper depth. Add to that "damp grass" and you're inviting disaster if someone starts resetting circuit breakers, tapping on the generator windings with a small hammer, a screwdriver poked into the back of the distribution box, etc. I've seen it happen time and time again. Those "things" aren't magic boxes to make us comfortable, they are tools that need to be properly used just like any power saw, welder, or pick up truck. All of them have a great potential to cause harm or to kill, yet we often times forget and just keep on "plugging away" at the generator... :(

[mhs4771]

[QUOTE=JRTJH;23565] As for the wattage on a 50 Amp trailer. I think you'll find that it's 2 legs of 30 amps each at 120 VAC, not 2 lines of 50 amps...


Nope, newer rigs run on 240V/50 Amps just like a mini stick house system. Two 120V legs of 50 Amps each. That is provided you're plugged into a real 50 Amp Service. Some CGs advertise 50 Amp Service, but it's just a Single Phase, 120V/50Amp

[JRTJH]

The largest somewhat portable generator I could find with an "RV plug function" that could be adapted to use a 50 Amp RV plug is the Honda EU6500. It is rated at 30 Amps for each leg, 60 Amps total. On my Champion 4000Watt, when used on the 240V function, each leg is 15 Amps for a total of 30 Amps if connected to a 50 amp RV adapter plug. As you mentioned, many campgrounds use 50A single phase power and "call it 50 Amp Service" I'd think that with many parks, the upgrade included adding a 50 Amp plug/breaker to the service post at the campsite, but did not include upgrading the underground wiring to handle the extra demand. That may well be the reason for a lot of the low voltage power problems in many campgrounds. Just a guess, I don't have any specifics to say what any particular campground may have done during their upgrade.

Actually, I believe (correct me if I'm wrong) that in order to use all the circuits in a 50 Amp RV, you need both legs of the 240V power. Each leg is connected to separate circuit breakers which power different functions in the RV, some on one leg of 120V and some on the other leg of 120V. So, if all the circuits are to be used at full capacity, then both phases need to be connected. In that scenario, you're right, the total input wattage would be 12,000 watts. Am I missing something?

[christopherglenn]

2 AC's = 3kw
microwave 1kw
tv / satellite / converter 1kw
water heater 1.5kw?
hair drier 1.5kw
washer / drier 2kw
total 10kw
I doubt (shooting high) you could max out a 50 amp service without actually trying to max it out.

[hankpage]

I have found in the past that this site (http://www.myrv.us/electric/) is very helpful when it comes to RV electric questions. Hank

[whitebb]

Looks like a good setup. The only thing both of my storage area are full as i full time. Had mine mounted in the front compartment of my RL 3700. 5.5 Onan propane. Had a 5.5 on my last motor home and carried my load great. We were in North Carolina working camping this year and lost power a lot. Enjoy & be safe

[jje1960]

Felt completely stupid last September at the Richmond Race.... Didn't need the big generator, was nice out, so we were using the 1K Mitsubishi. After a couple of minutes it just died, pop'd it's breaker... Immediately accused my poor wife of turning a toaster on or something..... ran around the trailer for like 15mins checking every possible plug for something that was over-drawing.... Almost gave up... it was definitely something over-drawing, the generator was working fine until plugged in..... Finally hit me.... Mr. Stupid forgot that when we left the house the aircon was on..... :rolleyes:

[ktmracer]

[QUOTE=JRTJH;23565] As for the wattage on a 50 Amp trailer. I think you'll find that it's 2 legs of 30 amps each at 120 VAC, not 2 lines of 50 amps...


Nope, newer rigs run on 240V/50 Amps just like a mini stick house system. Two 120V legs of 50 Amps each. That is provided you're plugged into a real 50 Amp Service. Some CGs advertise 50 Amp Service, but it's just a Single Phase, 120V/50Amp

and the trailer wirinng is sized for two 120v 50A legs, 12KW total. Granted few trailers use 240V, but they could, it's available from the plug. If the outlet is a NEMA 14-50F plug my understanding isthat by NEC code supplying two 120V 50A legs, 180 degrees out of phase, ground and neutral, just like the 240V to a dryer or stove. You'll end up with two 120V hot-neutral legs and a 240V hot-hot if you want it.