Water Pump Bypass

[Payton]

We have a brand new Keystone Sprinter. We are camping for the first time and can't get the pump to pump water. The unit was winterized. All we are getting out of the faucets is air. Please help

[sourdough]

Pump is running non stop and pushing air? Is there water in the fresh water tank? Enough? More information is going to be very helpful.

[Duramike]

Does the pump have a hose for pulling rv antifreeze out of jug into water lines? If so, the valve could be turned the wrong direction and sucking air thru that tube. Turn the valve the other direction and it should pull water out if the tank.

[Canonman]

I was going to ask what did you do to "DE-Winterize"? If the hot water bypass is in bypass configuration, then Duramike is probably right. You're sucking air instead of water. We're figuring you have water in the fresh water tank.

[Payton]

The problem is I can't find the valve.

[MarcS]

I'm going to guess there's an access panel below the refrigerator or stove. It will be held on with 4 #2 square headed screws. Remove the access panel. If the hot water heater is there, there will be one valve to turn.

[Duramike]

What model Sprinter do you have? My pump and valve are accessible by removing a panel under the sink. The antifreeze hose should be connected to the pump at one end with no connection on the other end. The valve will be near the connected end of this hose.

[JRTJH]

There are many different "configurations" for where the winterization valve for the water pump and for the water heater are located. "Long ago" (before the days of convenience centers) the water heater valve was almost always located on the bottom inlet, behind the water heater and the antifreeze (winterization) valve for the water pump was usually on the inlet side of the water pump, in the supply hose for the fresh water tank.

With the "introduction of convenience centers" the valves have, on some trailer models, been moved to that panel. There are as many "panel configurations" as there are "trailer manufacturers" and some manufacturers use 4 or 5 (maybe more) different panels in their multiple brands/models. So without knowing which panel you have (if you have a convenience center) or where your valves might be located, it's a "best guess" to advise what you should turn to resolve your problem.

I'd also say that even on the same model, there can be significant differences. One example is the Cougar 32RLI. Even in 2018, there are, on some trailers, two gray tank valves and on some trailers, there is only one gray tank valve that drains both gray tanks. So, even if someone who owns the same year and model trailer as you, their plumbing may not match yours.

If you have any pictures of your setup, post them and someone will probably point you to the exact problem, but without knowing how your trailer is configured, even someone with the same trailer may only be able to give you a "best guess".....

[Canonman]

If you have not de-winterized before, this is a good video on the subject. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WCI2BVnEORo
Note, there is an outside hatch for the water heater. You can start looking for the inside access panel at the same relative location as the outside hatch. Most often, the bypass is next to the water heater. Keep us updated on what you find.

[Big Chief]

both my new sprinter and my buddy's new sprinter have an access hole cut in the wall panel in the basement to gain access to the pump. located just inside the control panel area where you fill/hook up city water. On the pump is a valve and hose added for sucking antifreeze out of a bottle for winterizing. This valve needs to be turned in line with the tank lines and not inline with the hose for winterizing. Both of ours were set this way when we picked them up.

[sourdough]

OK. Y'all help me out here. OP said his pump runs constantly, the faucets put out air instead of water....why would the bypass be in play as the culprit?

When the bypass is closed all it does is bypass the water heater. The water circulates right by it if everything is correct so I'm not sure how the bypass would have anything to do with the pump running constantly, pushing air through the faucet vs water??? If it was winterized and in that position water (or air) should be pushed through the faucets. If it was winterized and the bypass is off and the plug is out of the HWH water should be coming out the HWH cover....right?

[Duramike]

OK. Y'all help me out here. OP said his pump runs constantly, the faucets put out air instead of water....why would the bypass be in play as the culprit?

When the bypass is closed all it does is bypass the water heater. The water circulates right by it if everything is correct so I'm not sure how the bypass would have anything to do with the pump running constantly, pushing air through the faucet vs water??? If it was winterized and in that position water (or air) should be pushed through the faucets. If it was winterized and the bypass is off and the plug is out of the HWH water should be coming out the HWH cover....right?

You are correct. I’m not talking about the water heater bypass. I’m thinking the RV has a winterize kit installed. If that valve is still turned in the position to pull antifreeze from the container when winterized it would now suck air only with no jug to pull from. Or am I thinking wrong? 🤪

[sourdough]

You are correct. I’m not talking about the water heater bypass. I’m thinking the RV has a winterize kit installed. If that valve is still turned in the position to pull antifreeze from the container when winterized it would now suck air only with no jug to pull from. Or am I thinking wrong? 🤪

You're right. Maybe they did leave that valve open if it has one. Never crossed my mind that the dealer would do something like THAT....:eek: Then again...... You know I dropped into that thread a half dozen times and I think I do recall someone saying something about the valve to winterize... Then the other posts talking about "bypass" my on again, off again brain just failed to recollect. For that, I'm taking it right back in that barn and make it do some more buffing on the trailer!!:D

[ctbruce]

Sourdough and Duramike, you may both be right on both unrelated (sorta) accounts. I believe that the winterize valve at the pump is open, letting air into the system and not allowing the system to pressurize. If that is true, then the bypass valve may also be closed still, and will not let water get to the WH. That could cause all kinds of other problems. Better to check both.

[sourdough]

My first thought was; first time camper, first time in brand new trailer that was "winterized" and no other qualifiers. That's why I initially questioned having water in the fresh water tank thinking they might not have done that...they haven't responded. After that I would be thinking the winterize valve as well. Maybe they will let us know.

[MattHelm21]

I vote that this is most likely the the winterizing valve. I winterized last fall myself and managed to forget this for a bit while I was in a rush to dewinterize a few weeks ago. Just also remember if you’ve just switched off the bypass and you are running the hot water, you will pump water but only air will escape from the faucet for around 5 minutes while the tank fills.

[flybouy]

I vote that this is most likely the the winterizing valve. I winterized last fall myself and managed to forget this for a bit while I was in a rush to dewinterize a few weeks ago. Just also remember if you’ve just switched off the bypass and you are running the hot water, you will pump water but only air will escape from the faucet for around 5 minutes while the tank fills.

I agree, and as a new camper they probably don't realize how long it can take to fill that tank. When de winterizing I've been in the habit of using the fw tank to accomplish the task for a couple of reasons. First by doing this I flush the tank and since it's going down the drain anyway chase the antifreeze with it. Secondly, by roughly timing how long it takes to purge the air from the hot water tank/line at the kitchen faucet (closest one to the hw tank in our unit) I know the relative health of the pump, and when the air purges and a solid stream of water close that faucet and open each hw faucet until ending at the furthest away from he pump. Pump should shut off and stay off. That tells me no leaks and pump pressure switch is good. I then drain the fw tank and connect city water and check for leaks at the inlet.