What fridge to get?

[warsw]

Thinking of going full time RV. The 5th wheel we are looking at has the option of either an 18 cu ft RV fridge or the same size residential fridge. Is there an advantage of one over the other?

We will be hooked up to shore power most of the time but we are thinking that we might boon dock it at times. The residential fridge does run off an inverter and we do have a generator but I’m not sure that the batteries would hold up long enough to make that a workable option. What do you all think?

[chuckster57]

Just my opinion- I would stay with the RV refer. Two options for operation, and repair parts are more readily available.

[fatcatzzz]

x2 on what chuckster57 says. But get the one you want.

[notanlines]

We both x3 what Chuckster said. Our 4-door has worked faithfully for almost four years, shore power, generator and propane. We have no complaints.

[busterbrown]

Much of your decision should depend on your time ratio of shore power hookup to boondocking. If, like you say, you'll be mostly connected to an AC power supply while fulltiming, a residential fridge would have distinct advantages. Less components, larger capacities, feature packed, no maintenance frost free units, and relatively cheap to replace.

On the other, if boondocking adventures are weekly or monthly routines, a two way RV fridge may be more appropriate. RV fridges are relatively economical on propane and your batteries will just power the ignition and temp control electronic components. Compressors for refrigerants is what eats juice.

[warsw]

Sounds like the versatility of a RV fridge might be the best way to go. Thanks for the input.

[mazboy]

i'd stay with what you have now. though my wife loves her 4 door model. i would not go for a 'real' refrig.

why would you want to change out something that is already there? if a little too small just go to the store more often.

[chuckster57]

i'd stay with what you have now. though my wife loves her 4 door model. i would not go for a 'real' refrig.

why would you want to change out something that is already there? if a little too small just go to the store more often.

Welcome to the forum!

O.P. isn't looking to swap, the unit they are looking at has the option of either RV or Household refer.

[Tinner12002]

Just read a horror story the other day about an RVer that had a res frig that went bad, still under warranty but couldn't find anyone to work on it unless it was removed from the RV. Dealer can't work on it because of component warranty so your pretty much on your own if you have problems. When I purchased mine I asked about the res frig, not that it was available in my model, and the dealer advised that they are trying to turn people away from them because of similar issues.

[bsmith0404]

With the new 18 cu ft RV refers the advantages of the residential fridge have pretty much been eliminated. I'd stay with a system that has multiple options for power. If your 110v electrical system ever goes out in the RV, many times the 12v and LP are still working and therefore so is your refer

[ctbruce]

With the new 18 cu ft RV refers the advantages of the residential fridge have pretty much been eliminated. I'd stay with a system that has multiple options for power. If your 110v electrical system ever goes out in the RV, many times the 12v and LP are still working and therefore so is your referI'd stay away, far away, from a residential fridge. Too many things to go wrong.

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[rhagfo]

The absorption units work well, I will not change

[MattHelm21]

My last RV style Dometic fridge lasted 16 years with only a burner cleaning. It had gotten to the point where the freezer worked perfectly but the fridge wouldn't cool below 40 to 50 degrees. The only other negative was the amount of time to cool down any absorption unit and the cringe every time someone opened the door for longer than I felt was necessary since I know it had to cool the interior back down again.

Now we have the residential fridge and the 1000W inverter. The plusses are its huge, it cools down fast, its huge, it has an icemaker, its huge, and its side by side with bottom freezer. There are many negatives and mostly you will hear about the power consumption. However, I think the biggest may be the fact the manual says my Samsung must not be operated in temperatures over 100 degrees Fahrenheit. This might be one of the biggest reasons for all the premature failures we read about. Bouncing down the road could be the other reason.

After one season, it works for my camping needs but I did have to run 50 amp power to the trailer at the house so I could set the AC to run during the day and keep it cool enough inside. I guess I'll update this post in 16 years(less if I have problems like others have).

[gearhead]

^^Sounds like you're wanting to keep the fridge running while you have it in storage at home? If I didn't do that and only plugged in to a 20amp 110volt household circuit to cool it down immediately before a trip, what do you think the odds of survival would be? Does the residential fridge always pull off the inverter, even when the trailer is hooked up to 110volt AC? I assume a 20amp circuit is big enough to charge the dedicated refrigerator batteries through its inverter, with nothing else running.
I have no confidence in our Dometic RV refrigerator. The residential unit sounds appealing but....

[chuckster57]

If his inverter is like most used it should be a "pass through" style meaning it will allow 110VAC "through" it while plugged into shore power.

IMO residential fridges belong in a permanent residence. RV fridges belong in RV's. Yeah maybe a residential refer gets cold faster and is bigger, but you'll never convince me it was built to bounce down the road, and the doors won't stay closed without adding some type of travel lock.

I have used RV refers since my first fiver in '89 and haven't ever had a failure. Am I lucky or is it the fact that they are made for RV application. BTW all my refers have been Dometic.

[gearhead]

My Dometic 1350 has been trouble from day 1. It may go back to the shop this winter. I don't know if it's flaming out or what. One morning it will be 34 degrees, next morning 46. We haven't used it this summer but hoping for a trip or 2 this fall. I'll refresh my memory of what it's doing. May be changing out 5th's in 18-36 months and debating what to do.

[JRTJH]

For those who remember "ice boxes" and the first refrigerators with the compressor mounted on top, domestic refrigeration has come a long way. Back in the 40's and early 50's the concept of refrigeration in homes was in its infancy. Absorption refrigeration was also an "up and coming" technology, but didn't catch on in S&B homes. It did, however become the "industry standard" for RV use. Through the years absorption refrigeration has evolved into a very reliable and efficient means to travel with food that requires being stored cold.

Just as absorption refrigeration has "evolved" for RV's, compressor refrigeration has "evolved" for the S&B home. There are some significant differences between the two and frankly, compressor refrigeration for RV's is in its infancy. There are some problems that so far have not been solved. Ambient temperature, vibration, power source, ice maker technology (extra power for the heating part to release the cubes) and reliability are significant "hurdles" that have not yet been conquered. In years to come, I'd suspect that S&B technology (the current level of domestic refrigerator in RV's) will evolve into "built for RV use" models. Right now, that's not the situation and RV manufacturers are using the "lowest bid" models that will fit the available space in the kitchen. It's pretty much a "you get what you pay for" situation in which there isn't a specific model suited for the environment, so Keystone (and others) are installing the cheapest brand that will meet most of the requirements and they're adding "don't do's" to the owner's manual warning RV'ers about the limitations, some of which are "impossible to overcome" types of limits, such as towing in Arizona during July with a Samsung refrigerator..... Ain't happening on a regular basis, if even the first time.....

This kind of evolution will continue to give RV'ers a better product, but just as "grandma's refrigerator" is a relic, in years to come, the Samsung domestic refrigerator will be a "relic" and newer models will be much improved.

Until then, absorption refrigeration is "already there" in terms of reliability and convenience, even if you can't stand in front of the refrigerator, door open and "graze the food choices"...... For me, I'll let someone else suffer through the "growing pains" of trying to adapt a S&B technology to RV use.....

[jsmith948]

For those who remember "ice boxes" and the first refrigerators with the compressor mounted on top, domestic refrigeration has come a long way. Back in the 40's and early 50's the concept of refrigeration in homes was in its infancy. Absorption refrigeration was also an "up and coming" technology, but didn't catch on in S&B homes. It did, however become the "industry standard" for RV use. Through the years absorption refrigeration has evolved into a very reliable and efficient means to travel with food that requires being stored cold.

Just as absorption refrigeration has "evolved" for RV's, compressor refrigeration has "evolved" for the S&B home. There are some significant differences between the two and frankly, compressor refrigeration for RV's is in its infancy. There are some problems that so far have not been solved. Ambient temperature, vibration, power source, ice maker technology (extra power for the heating part to release the cubes) and reliability are significant "hurdles" that have not yet been conquered. In years to come, I'd suspect that S&B technology (the current level of domestic refrigerator in RV's) will evolve into "built for RV use" models. Right now, that's not the situation and RV manufacturers are using the "lowest bid" models that will fit the available space in the kitchen. It's pretty much a "you get what you pay for" situation in which there isn't a specific model suited for the environment, so Keystone (and others) are installing the cheapest brand that will meet most of the requirements and they're adding "don't do's" to the owner's manual warning RV'ers about the limitations, some of which are "impossible to overcome" types of limits, such as towing in Arizona during July with a Samsung refrigerator..... Ain't happening on a regular basis, if even the first time.....

This kind of evolution will continue to give RV'ers a better product, but just as "grandma's refrigerator" is a relic, in years to come, the Samsung domestic refrigerator will be a "relic" and newer models will be much improved.

Until then, absorption refrigeration is "already there" in terms of reliability and convenience, even if you can't stand in front of the refrigerator, door open and "graze the food choices"...... For me, I'll let someone else suffer through the "growing pains" of trying to adapt a S&B technology to RV use.....The Dometic refer in our Cougar sure beats the tin lined, fiberglass insulated ice box (one compartment for food and an upper compartment for a 25# block of ice) that we had in our old cab over p/u camper. Happy to have it!!

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[MattHelm21]

I assume a 20amp circuit is big enough to charge the dedicated refrigerator batteries through its inverter, with nothing else running.

Yes 20 is enough to keep the batteries topped "and" run the samsung fridge. I did that with 15 amps. Just be sure any extension cord you use is higher than normal gauge wire to prevent voltage drops that could damage the compressor.

[Ddubya]

I have had a failure on my Samsung fridge. Went through a lot of trouble and had Samsung refund my purchase price. I then purchased the same model from Lowes. Maybe I am asking for trouble but I believe that residential fridges will work in RV's. I would recommend installing a good surge protector as the spikes from changing power sources may be a cause for some of the issues. I also plan on installing shock absorbers on the suspension to help smooth out the ride of the trailer.
I have had issues with RV fridges in the past so they all can fail.

[xnman]

Ok... another opinion. I have a Keystone Alpine 5th wheel. My fridge went out after about a year and a half. Knowing what I know now... I would not hesitate to put in a house fridge. Normally longer lasting, able to "wiggle" while moving camper and proven technology of long lasting.
One of the problems with rv fridges is they need to be level to work. When they are not level, they will build up what is called "crystals" in the gas and enough crystals and the fridge won't work.
Most of the time, when moving the rv, the fridge is not level. Thus it should be turned off when moving the rv. This protects the gas and prevents the "crystals" from building up.
Rv fridges are good technology, no moving parts. But as for me, if my rv fridge goes out, I will be getting a house fridge. No. 1 reason is the cost. About $600 to $1,000 for house fridge compared to $3,000 plus for new rv fridge.
Just my 2 cents..... which isn't worth anything anymore. :)

[chuckster57]

While your traveling down the road, the “shaking” of the trailer (refrigerator) prevents the formation of crystals.

Household refers aren’t designed for buildings with regular “earthquakes” and additional latches must be installed to keep the doors closed during travel.

You can replace the cooling unit on an RV fridge for less than $1000.00. I’ll take an RV refer over a residential in an RV EVERY time.

[sandy43]

My Samsung residential went out or going out soon. Will replace with another residential fridge, definitely NOT Samsung. What brand, don't know. Any suggestions?

[bobbecky]

After having the cooling unit replaced in our 12 cu ft Norcold within the first three years, once due to crystals and the second time due to a leak, we are still working well. The only change we made was to install an ARP device and it does not allow the unit to overheat, which is what causes the crystal buildup. Sitting here this evening with the remote temperature device next to me, the freezer is at 13 degrees and the fridge is at 35 degrees. I have no financial interest in the ARP device company, but their product does work and I am very happy not having fridge issues. This is the link to their site. https://www.arprv.com/

[Vet4jdc]

Unlike Chuckster57, I like my residential fridge and we've had both. While the RV fridge worked fine in our 2013 Mountaineer, we now have the 18 cu ft Samsung in our High Country and would not go back.

We have ran it off the battery(s) for up to 8 hours. It cools fast on startup. And....this is the big one for me, we love the icemaker and use it 100% of the time while camping.

I have not purchased ice for a cooler for the past 2 years. At $3.00 per bag, I have saved tons of money buying ice.

Good luck with your decision and do what fits you. I think you will be satisfied either way.

[LewisB]

If his inverter is like most used it should be a "pass through" style meaning it will allow 110VAC "through" it while plugged into shore power.

IMO residential fridges belong in a permanent residence. RV fridges belong in RV's. Yeah maybe a residential refer gets cold faster and is bigger, but you'll never convince me it was built to bounce down the road, and the doors won't stay closed without adding some type of travel lock.

I have used RV refers since my first fiver in '89 and haven't ever had a failure. Am I lucky or is it the fact that they are made for RV application. BTW all my refers have been Dometic.

I agree whole heartedly with Chuck! Just my personal opinion, but never had a problem with RV refrigerators. We have a big 18cf model now and love it. Someone mentioned ice: we freeze our own pre-trip and during the trip, the 18cf unit has tons of freezer space. I would not want the pressure of having to maintain a separate battery system and converter running every day to keep the fridge going! Each to his own of course, but I wouldn't want a residential in my RV.

Had to chuckle at John's post: here's a photo of our first rig and "refrigerator". Amazing how our "expectations" have changed in the last 50 years! We were poor collage students back then (about 1971):
31105

31106

31107

[rhagfo]

While your traveling down the road, the “shaking” of the trailer (refrigerator) prevents the formation of crystals.

Household refers aren’t designed for buildings with regular “earthquakes” and additional latches must be installed to keep the doors closed during travel.

You can replace the cooling unit on an RV fridge for less than $1000.00. I’ll take an RV refer over a residential in an RV EVERY time.

I am with Chuckster on this also! While we have had to replace the cooling unit on our two refers the first was in a fixer 5th wheel (1986 King of the Road) that we bought to see if we wanted to get back into RV life. The other was in our current 2005 Copper Canyon, at 13 years old, both worked great after replacement. I did both replacements very easy.