Adding Pimp switch and RV Guages..

[Maxzd]

Just wondering if anyone out there has added a second water pump switch and gauges to their unit. I was outside late last night getting the unit ready for a quick 3-4 day trip. While I was filling up the water tank, (first time actually maiden voyage coming up) I was back and forth inside a lot to see water level. Just got to thinking why not have same controls and panel in basement too.

I have that "command center" like most units have now with water hookups, cable, satellite, black tank flush, and the outside shower. Located in the side basement hatch right next to water tank fill door. I have seen higher end units with gauges here but not water pump switch. At least I never noticed. I just figure if I ever want to use my outside shower and pump isn't on I have to walk into the unit turn pump on and come back. Not lazy, just like convenience. =). Also when I am filling water I can see where we are at if it had a gauge below. Short trips I don't fill full why carry the weight. Also another thought is when emptying the tanks be good to know from outside the capacity or if a gauge is registering empty or sensor needs cleaning.

So if anyone has any tips or examples. I am thinking it's fishing wires, splicing wires and finding the right location, switch and gauge in this command center.

[Ruffus]

Well Max here's what I do. When filling the fresh water there is a vent next to the fill inlet. When water starts coming out from the vent it's full. As far as turning the pump on and off to use the outside shower, when we are camping we leave the pump on all the time. When we are traveling we turn it off in case the water is to low to hold pressure and the pump wants to cycle. Your idea would work too but just seems like a lot of added aggrevation finding wires and such.:rolleyes:

[Maxzd]

Well Max here's what I do. When filling the fresh water there is a vent next to the fill inlet. When water starts coming out from the vent it's full. As far as turning the pump on and off to use the outside shower, when we are camping we leave the pump on all the time. When we are traveling we turn it off in case the water is to low to hold pressure and the pump wants to cycle. Your idea would work too but just seems like a lot of added aggrevation finding wires and such.:rolleyes:

Yes, quite familiar with the methods you describe. I live for the challenge of a mod while making it look factory installed. When I post my mods for the inverter, auto transfer switch and the solar panels it will make fishing a couple of wires seem like a piece of cake. Aggrevation now THOSE projects were a full dose. A little aggrevation in the driveway means peaceful bliss in the campsite. :D

[Berick]

Sorry.... but I gotta say it. I love your title and I would love to see the benefits of a "Pimp-Switch! lololol

[jje1960]

Yes, quite familiar with the methods you describe. I live for the challenge of a mod while making it look factory installed. When I post my mods for the inverter, auto transfer switch and the solar panels it will make fishing a couple of wires seem like a piece of cake. Aggrevation now THOSE projects were a full dose. A little aggrevation in the driveway means peaceful bliss in the campsite. :D

Yo Max... while this is not a mod or reply.... gotta tell ya this considering we have the same unit... Today, loaded the golf cart for the first time considering the weather was nice. It fit perfectly! One thing though, the support brackets need to be beat on a bit with a mallet, they are tight tight tight. After a bit of beating, everything went well!

[Maxzd]

Sorry.... but I gotta say it. I love your title and I would love to see the benefits of a "Pimp-Switch! lololol

Yes, oh for the ability to spell check. :) I went back to edit the title but looks like you can only edit the message... I bet it got more views because of it though!

[Maxzd]

Yo Max... while this is not a mod or reply.... gotta tell ya this considering we have the same unit... Today, loaded the golf cart for the first time considering the weather was nice. It fit perfectly! One thing though, the support brackets need to be beat on a bit with a mallet, they are tight tight tight. After a bit of beating, everything went well!

Awesome.. Great to hear the Golf Cart fit perfect. I haven't tried loading an ATV or Bike into the unit.. I know it's going to work, just haven't done it yet. I'm also not sure how I'm going to tie these things down yet. Golf Cart is pretty stable, everyone says bikes need some type of wheel chock. I found this interesting company that makes a really clever tie down racking system. Check out the link for those interested.

www.boltiton.com

I'm about a month away from heading down to California for 16 days with the Unit. Should be a blast. I just upgraded my automatic transfer switch from 30 Amp to 50 Amp and rewired it. The relay in the go power 30 Amp Switch was giving me trouble. When I connected shore power it would buzz didn't always connect clean. Had to keep connecting and disconnecting shore power cable until the relay took. That got old real quick. Now I have a 50 Amp IOTA transfer switch. Wired it slightly different. In the old setup shore power was on the delay so the relay was always hot. Now I did it the reverse which probably makes more sense. I will be plugged into shore power more often than inverter power.. The relay pulls up the inverter now..

I though alot about your generator in the truck comment in the last few months. Trying to figure out how to run a cord to the truck bed when I have the generator in it. Don't want to run a power cord along the ground to the truck if I have to make a quick getaway. =)

I'm going to take a video of this and post it on Youtube for you.. The pictures will not make sense otherwise.. I'll post the link here for everyone.

So the yellow cord goes all the way to the transfer switch which is below the stove in the unit. That's where I rewired the converter, fuse panel and shore power so I could use an inverter. This is my front hatch:

http://www.bcchevelleclub.com/cougar/fronthatch.jpg

So If I wanted to run the generator without running the shore power cable outside I can just open the hatch, disconnect the plug from the inverter and plug another cord into it and back to my generator. Fire up the generator and 20 seconds later the transfer switch kicks in and the unit is running 110v.

I'm trying to figure out how to run it a little neater than that and without opening the hatch. I will probably run a cord through the gooseneck and at some point hook up another transfer switch.

ONLY downside, the Generator would not charge the batteries in this scenario. :( I swapped the the converter and the receptacle breakers on the fuse panel so the inverter powers the receptables and not the converter.

So the answer is really a 3 way transfer switch below the stove. :D To be honest for how much I expect to use my generator I doubt I really need this setup. I have 246 Watts of solar power, 400 Amp hours of battery, heavy duty inverter... Generator is emergency not primary.. Still.. it would be ridiculously convienient..

[jje1960]

I though alot about your generator in the truck comment in the last few months. Trying to figure out how to run a cord to the truck bed when I have the generator in it. Don't want to run a power cord along the ground to the truck if I have to make a quick getaway. =)

Wow, you've been busy again! Kind of embarressed, however I had to take the cheating quick way out to use the genset in the back of the truck (for now), I bought a 50' 10/3 very expensive extension cord... then ran the cord under the unit using plastic hoop retainers, taking out every other under-cover screw, and ran the cord up to the slide side propane tank hole under the unit. The cord just hangs on a hook in there. I bought a 50amp-110 adapting plug (like $45.00) for the back, then a 30amp-110 for the genset side. When I stop I just drop the cord out of the propane access hole and plug into the genset. 2mins and trailer is on genset! May or may not provide enough volt for the 15k aircon, will try that out maybe this week when the temp in the trailer is enough to get the aircon to start. Obviously, the right way is to run the proper gauge wire from a manual transfer switch behind the switch panel under the stove, to a plug in the front compartment, however that looks to be a full weekend of work. Anyway, for now, have the genset locked safely in the back of the truck, and it just purrs all night until we need the juice. We used like 1/2 tank (1.9gal tank) in about 9hrs. with the new Boliy.

[Maxzd]

I though alot about your generator in the truck comment in the last few months. Trying to figure out how to run a cord to the truck bed when I have the generator in it. Don't want to run a power cord along the ground to the truck if I have to make a quick getaway. =)

Wow, you've been busy again! Kind of embarressed, however I had to take the cheating quick way out to use the genset in the back of the truck (for now), I bought a 50' 10/3 very expensive extension cord... then ran the cord under the unit using plastic hoop retainers, taking out every other under-cover screw, and ran the cord up to the slide side propane tank hole under the unit. The cord just hangs on a hook in there. I bought a 50amp-110 adapting plug (like $45.00) for the back, then a 30amp-110 for the genset side. When I stop I just drop the cord out of the propane access hole and plug into the genset. 2mins and trailer is on genset! May or may not provide enough volt for the 15k aircon, will try that out maybe this week when the temp in the trailer is enough to get the aircon to start. Obviously, the right way is to run the proper gauge wire from a manual transfer switch behind the switch panel under the stove, to a plug in the front compartment, however that looks to be a full weekend of work. Anyway, for now, have the genset locked safely in the back of the truck, and it just purrs all night until we need the juice. We used like 1/2 tank (1.9gal tank) in about 9hrs. with the new Boliy.

My project took a few weekends. Half the battle is figuring out how to fish everything through the unit.

Not cheating at all, like we both know, most people will just run the big shorepower cord to a genset and it's as far as the cord reaches... 25 feet won't get to the truck if you're still hooked up..

My initial thought was to do the exact same thing same thing you did. I bought the 50amp to 110v adapter too. I was going to run conduit with a 10/3 50' electrical cord front to back. Like you, I planned to run it thru the propane tank cavity but then up into the front hatch for inverter vs. generator but I guess both could work.

So to get 110v off the inverter it would have meant - Plug the 50amp to 15amp (110v) plug in. Plug that into the cord that is running under the belly of the unit. Plug the other end into an inverter if it wasn't already and then the whole unit would be running off inverter & battery bank power. I would then have to switch the converter breaker off on the fuse panel because the battery bank would be trying to charge itself..

Really the reason I went the transfer switch route is because I talked myself into it big time. Looked at so many different Motorhome RV wiring diagrams on the internet that I convinced myself it would be unthinkable to spend 3 minutes hooking up a cord versus hitting one button to switch to inverter. About 150 bucks later for the transfer switch and miscellaneous items I now have 3 minutes more time to enjoy RVing. :cool:

Two quick pictures below if you ever decide to route in a transfer switch. Basically it's where my cord fished through. You already own the cord so you could easily do this and then fish the extra bit up the gooseneck so it's always tucked up in the truck bed. You would just re-route it under the front steps up thru the side skirting and into the pantry. From there the cord goes thru in below the stove and you setup the transfer switch from there..

So if you ever decide to do it in the 325srx my advice is to take the stove completely out. The service department at my dealer said that's what they normally do when I got to talking about it after. That way plenty of room you're not fishing and struggling to use a drill in a foot of opening. Had not thought of that of course, always do things the hard way.

The Red and Black Wire are from the Solar Panel Charger. They are fished in from the interior and then run up into the fridge vent. From the roof the solar panel wires are fished down the vent and connected in the vent cover.

http://www.bcchevelleclub.com/cougar/switch1.jpg

http://www.bcchevelleclub.com/cougar/switch2.jpg