Need Suspension Suggestions

[alexsbuddy]

I have a 2005 F150 XLT Supercab 5.4L 2WD and would like to improve the suspension system to better accommodate my 2001 Sprinter 274RLS. My factory installed suspension is as follows:

Front
Coil-on-shock, long-spindle double wishbone independent, cast aluminum lower control arm.

Rear
Hotchkiss-type non-independent live, leaf springs and outboard shock absorbers.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I would like to improve the payload capacity and will definitely be upgrading to a LT tire with an E load rating as well. Thanks.

[Terrydactile]

Are you using a weight distributing hitch?

[alexsbuddy]

Yes. I have a Husky Big Hitch with stabilizers.

[alexsbuddy]

More accurately, the hitch is a Husky Centerline Tow System.....I guess Big Hitch is it's nickname.

[Ken / Claudia]

Guessing you have 6ply tires. When we had 1/2 work trucks, they came to us with factory 6plys and were taken to a tire shop ASAP for 10 plys. If you have never drove the same truck before/after switching to them you may not believe how better the truck handles as to carrying a load etc. You may want a wider rim also. You may need to air them up when trailering and back down without a load. Even front to rear can can different. Example: my truck empty would run 50 all around, with inbed camper, 65 front 80 rear. Now with current trailer 55 front and 65 rear. I have been leaveing them at that psi and still have a normal ride. Air bags help get the truck level and will reduce sway when loaded. I have had them on 2 trucks now and they work. Again psi up/down to get best handling. I always keep weight on the springs. NO weight on the springs and the truck will bounce like crazy. Current trailer I tow does not need air bags so they stay at 5-10 psi. Replace the factory shocks with the biggest heavy duty ones you can get. Last week at the dump site I seen a guy with about same year as yours and about 30 ft. trailer. The rear was down, front up, He could not drive it that way at night. RearTires bulged out. I felt I should have talked to him but, I have to those guys before. It goes like this, it tows ok, I don't drive to fast etc.

[PT RV`er]

As mentioned above, change out the shocks with a heavy duty brand, change to load range E tires and I added a set of super springs to my rear end. I was going to go with air bags but I didn`t want to keep inflating and deflating according to the load. The super springs are working well for me with anything I tow now. These are the springs I`m talking about.
http://www.sdtrucksprings.com/super-springs

[JRTJH]

I have a 2005 F150 XLT Supercab 5.4L 2WD and would like to improve the suspension system to better accommodate my 2001 Sprinter 274RLS. My factory installed suspension is as follows:

Front
Coil-on-shock, long-spindle double wishbone independent, cast aluminum lower control arm.

Rear
Hotchkiss-type non-independent live, leaf springs and outboard shock absorbers.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I would like to improve the payload capacity and will definitely be upgrading to a LT tire with an E load rating as well. Thanks.

I highlited one comment from your original post. Other's may have "skipped" over it or otherwise not seen it.

There is no approved "add on device" that will increase your payload capacity. On every website you will find a disclaimer stating, "Do not load vehicle beyond manufacturer's stated load bearing weight." (or words to that effect)

That's the case with the "supersprings" that were suggested previously. On their webpage, the "ambiguity" of their statement is explained better in the instructions for the item. The webpage says:
"SuperSprings enhance load carrying capacity, handling and towing. Never load any vehicle beyond the manufacturer’s gross vehicle weight rating. " This "sort of" leads one to believe payload is "enhanced" but really, what they are saying is "load carrying capacity" is enhanced. That can be defined as "rear end sag" "sway" "bouncing" "head light aim" are "enhanced" but the second sentence goes on to say "NEVER load any vehicle beyond the manufacturer's gross vehicle weight rating." Which is their "out" should anything happen by overloading your truck.

In their instructions, it says:

"SuperSprings are designed to improve vehicle carrying capacity and road handling. Do NOT load any vehicle beyond the manufacturer’s specifications." The warning not to overload the vehicle is much clearer, but usually not read until after the product is purchased and the box opened in your garage. Marketing at its finest ?????

I'd urge you not to approach any suspension modification with the intent of increasing your payload. The rear axle bearings, hubs, shafts, c-clips and other important components are engineered to work together to support a specific weight rating. Every aftermarket manufacturer warns "do not load any vehicle beyond the manufacturer's specifications"

[PT RV`er]

I highlited one comment from your original post. Other's may have "skipped" over it or otherwise not seen it.

There is no approved "add on device" that will increase your payload capacity. On every website you will find a disclaimer stating, "Do not load vehicle beyond manufacturer's stated load bearing weight." (or words to that effect)

That's the case with the "supersprings" that were suggested previously. On their webpage, the "ambiguity" of their statement is explained better in the instructions for the item. The webpage says:
"SuperSprings enhance load carrying capacity, handling and towing. Never load any vehicle beyond the manufacturer’s gross vehicle weight rating. " This "sort of" leads one to believe payload is "enhanced" but really, what they are saying is "load carrying capacity" is enhanced. That can be defined as "rear end sag" "sway" "bouncing" "head light aim" are "enhanced" but the second sentence goes on to say "NEVER load any vehicle beyond the manufacturer's gross vehicle weight rating." Which is their "out" should anything happen by overloading your truck.

In their instructions, it says:

"SuperSprings are designed to improve vehicle carrying capacity and road handling. Do NOT load any vehicle beyond the manufacturer’s specifications." The warning not to overload the vehicle is much clearer, but usually not read until after the product is purchased and the box opened in your garage. Marketing at its finest ?????

I'd urge you not to approach any suspension modification with the intent of increasing your payload. The rear axle bearings, hubs, shafts, c-clips and other important components are engineered to work together to support a specific weight rating. Every aftermarket manufacturer warns "do not load any vehicle beyond the manufacturer's specifications"

You are correct John, I did over look the ( increase payload) as stated by the OP. I purchased the super springs for my truck to stabilize my tow and stop the sag without having to go with airbags.
I agree with John, if your truck manufacturer states a specified payload, that's what you have to stick with. Only way to increase your payload would be to buy a bigger truck.

[Ken / Claudia]

John is 100% correct. I read the OPs question and failed to mention as I should have that all those inprovements make the truck handle better when loaded but, will not give more weight cap.

[alexsbuddy]

You are absolutely correct. I used the wrong term and greatly appreciate the clarification. What I am looking to do is to improve the rear suspension (less sag, better leveling, etc...) to eliminate some slight porpoising. Hooked up and ready to roll, I am only at 80% of my truck's Maximum Towing Capacity and 68% of my truck's Maximum Payload Capacity (using the manufacturer's specifications). I have a Husky Centerline Tow System which has been adjusted to my rig. I am hoping that by beefing up the suspension by adding air springs, upgrading to a LT E load tire, and upgrading the shocks that this will eliminate the porpoising and create a safer towing experience. All of these ideas have come from reading the responses and posts on this forum and I greatly appreciate the help.

[JRTJH]

Upgrading to LRE tires will be your biggest help with the "squirrely" feeling. That and proper adjustment of your hitch to load the front wheels properly will give you the best towing response. After that, if you're still unsatisfied with the rear end sag, then air springs will probably be your best bet.

Remember, if you install air bags, you'll change the rear height, which will change the loading on your equalizer bars and change the front wheel loading on your tow vehicle. You'll want to readjust and remember which setting works best with which PSI in the bags... It will get complicated, not impossible, but frustratingly complicated to adjust the bars and then inflate the bags.

I'd suggest LRE tires and a good hitch adjustment, you may find that it brings the front of the truck down enough that you don't need bags after all.

[rhagfo]

You are absolutely correct. I used the wrong term and greatly appreciate the clarification. What I am looking to do is to improve the rear suspension (less sag, better leveling, etc...) to eliminate some slight porpoising. Hooked up and ready to roll, I am only at 80% of my truck's Maximum Towing Capacity and 68% of my truck's Maximum Payload Capacity (using the manufacturer's specifications). I have a Husky Centerline Tow System which has been adjusted to my rig. I am hoping that by beefing up the suspension by adding air springs, upgrading to a LT E load tire, and upgrading the shocks that this will eliminate the porpoising and create a safer towing experience. All of these ideas have come from reading the responses and posts on this forum and I greatly appreciate the help.

With the weights and load percentages you have given, you should not need bags. The E rated tires will add greatly to the stability driving down the road, less of a mushy feeling. New high end shocks on the TV and trailer will solve the porpoising. The WD hitch should level the TV.